Jan 2025【日本東北】溫泉三昧之旅② 在大雪飄落的雪國,追尋秘湯之宿與極上美食(仙台~品嚐極上米澤牛&奧羽的百年藥湯-鎌先溫泉)
抬頭望去,天空灰濛濛一片,雪花像無數白色精靈般,輕盈地舞動著,飄落在我的髮梢、肩頭,瞬間融化成晶瑩剔透的水珠。路燈的光芒穿透雪花,在地上投射出一個個朦朧的光圈,整個車站廣場籠罩在一片夢幻般的氛圍中。
車站前的行道樹上,積雪厚厚地覆蓋著枝椏,彷彿披上了一件雪白的冬衣。偶爾,一陣風吹過,樹枝輕輕搖晃,雪花便簌簌落下,像是在演奏一首冬日戀歌。
來往的行人裹著厚厚的冬衣,腳步匆匆,呼出的熱氣在空中形成一團團白霧,很快又消散在風雪中。路上的車輛也放慢了速度,小心翼翼地行駛著,車輪碾過積雪,發出沙沙的聲響。
我站在車站出口,靜靜地欣賞著這迷人的雪景。遠處的高樓大廈在雪幕中若隱若現,街道兩旁的商店招牌被雪花裝點得格外醒目,偶爾傳來幾聲清脆的鈴鐺聲,那是電車駛過時發出的聲音。
這一切,構成了一幅獨特的冬日仙台街景。儘管寒風刺骨,但我的心中卻充滿了溫暖和興奮。這場突如其來的大雪,為我們的仙台之旅增添了一份預料之外的驚喜。
仙台,這座位於日本東北的最大城市,就像一位溫文儒雅的武士,既有著現代都市的繁華,也保留著歷史的沉穩與內斂。這裡,不似東京那般步履匆忙,卻有著自己獨特的節奏,讓人不自覺地放慢腳步,細細品味。
說到仙台,不得不提伊達政宗,這位獨眼的名將,為這座城市奠定了基礎,也留下了許多傳奇故事。騎上單車,沿著廣瀨川前行,我彷彿穿越時空,回到那個群雄逐鹿的戰國時代。來到仙台城跡,雖然天守閣已不復存在,但站在青葉山丘上,俯瞰整個城市,依然能感受到當年伊達家族的雄心壯志。
除了歷史的厚重,仙台也充滿了現代的活力。漫步在定禪寺通,這條被譽為「森林之都」象徵的林蔭大道,高聳的櫸樹在兩旁列隊歡迎,陽光透過枝葉灑落地面,形成一片片斑駁的光影。街道兩旁,時尚的咖啡廳、精緻的商店鱗次櫛比,讓人流連忘返。而夜晚的國分町,則是另一番景象,燈火通明,人聲鼎沸,各式各樣的居酒屋、餐廳散發著誘人的香氣,這裡是體驗仙台夜生活的不二之選。
聽聞仙台車站附近有一家評價很高的「仔虎」燒肉店,專門提供高品質的米澤牛,我們決定前往一探究竟。說起米澤牛,那可是山形縣的驕傲,絕對能夠與松阪牛、神戶牛、近江牛這些著名和牛齊名。據說早在江戶時代,米澤藩主上杉鷹山為了振興當地經濟,便鼓勵農民飼養牛隻,這也奠定了米澤牛的發展基礎。
米澤牛的美味,來自於其得天獨厚的生長環境和嚴謹的飼養管理。米澤盆地擁有肥沃的土壤和清澈的水源,孕育出肉質細膩、油花均勻的米澤牛。農民們悉心照料每一頭牛,不僅餵養優質飼料,甚至還會幫牠們按摩、聽音樂,只為提升肉質。也因此,米澤牛的飼養期比一般和牛更長,需達32個月以上,且必須通過嚴格的品質檢驗,才能冠上「米澤牛」的美名。
走進仔虎燒肉店,溫暖的燈光和木質裝潢營造出舒適的用餐氛圍。翻開菜單,琳瑯滿目的米澤牛料理令人食指大動。仔虎嚴選A5等級的米澤牛,肉質鮮嫩多汁,油花分布猶如藝術品,光是看著就讓人垂涎欲滴。
我們點了店內最上等的和牛套餐,價格合理份量也很足。套餐中包含多種不同部位的米澤牛,可以一次品嚐到不同的口感和風味。看著窗外降下大雪的仙台市街景色,當烤得滋滋作響的牛肉送入口中,那入口即化的口感、豐富的油脂香氣和甜味,瞬間征服了我的味蕾。
仔虎燒肉店不僅肉質出色,服務也相當到位。店員親切地介紹各種牛肉部位的特色,還細心地教導如何烤出最佳口感。仔虎燒肉店的高品質牛肉和貼心服務,讓我對仙台的美食,留下了非常美好的記憶。
雖然這趟旅行我們這有造訪山形縣,不過約莫10年前,我造訪山寺,以及白布溫泉時,沒有品嘗到米沢牛燒肉,這次能在仙台吃到如此美味的米沢牛,也算是彌補了10年前的遺憾了!
吃飽後,我們接著前往仙台這座城市的心臟地帶——定禪寺通。兩旁高聳的櫸樹篩落陽光,美得令人屏息。就在這片城市綠洲中,一陣迷人的香氣吸引了我,領著我來到了一間小巧的咖啡館,招牌上寫著「咖巢多夢」。
這家咖啡館的門面不大,位在二樓,木質的裝潢散發著溫暖的氣息,彷彿是森林中的一座溫馨小屋。這家小店提供來自世界各地農場精選的咖啡、經過炭火二次烘焙的成熟咖啡豆、每日特選咖啡、原創混合咖啡以及來自不同地區和農場的純咖啡。
推開珈巢多夢咖啡館的那扇老舊木門,彷彿瞬間隔絕了外界的喧囂,踏入了一個靜謐而溫暖的小天地。深色木質調的裝潢,搭配著柔和的燈光,空氣中瀰漫著一股淡淡的咖啡香氣,讓人不自覺地放鬆下來。
幾張小桌子和吧台就佔據了大部分的空間。但這絲毫沒有影響它的魅力,反而更添了一份親切和溫馨。昏黃的燈光下,牆上掛著幾幅照片,記錄著咖啡豆的旅程,從遙遠的異國他鄉,到這間小小的咖啡館,每一張都訴說著一個關於風味與堅持的故事。
環顧四周,店內擺放著一些古董家具和擺飾,像是泛黃的老照片、古樸的鐘錶,以及帶著歲月痕跡的木櫃,散發出一種懷舊復古的氛圍。牆上掛著幾幅藝術畫作,增添了一絲文藝氣息。
空氣中彌漫著淡淡的爵士樂,與咖啡的香氣交織在一起,構成了一曲令人陶醉的交響樂。老闆是一位看起來頗有年紀的先生,戴著眼鏡,專注地站在吧台後,手沖著咖啡。他的動作熟練而優雅,像一位藝術家在創作自己的作品。從磨豆、注水到萃取,每一個步驟都充滿了儀式感
我點了一杯炭火烘焙的衣索比亞,以及一份手工草莓起司蛋糕。不久後咖啡送上來了,熱氣騰騰的杯中,咖啡液呈現深邃的褐色,散發著濃郁的香氣。輕啜一口,微苦的口感中帶著炭火烘焙的獨特香氣,醇厚而回甘,令人回味無窮。搭配著綿密細緻的草莓起司蛋糕,更是一場味覺的饗宴。
在珈巢多夢,時間彷彿慢了下來。我們沉浸在咖啡的香氣中,享受著這份難得的寧靜與愜意。
Stepping out of the warm Shinkansen carriage, a wave of icy air hit me, and I instinctively pulled my scarf tighter. Outside Sendai Station, a flurry of snowflakes swirled down like goose feathers, blanketing the world in a pristine white.
Looking up, the sky was a hazy grey, the snowflakes dancing like countless white sprites. They landed softly on my hair and shoulders, instantly melting into crystal-clear droplets. The streetlights cast a dim glow, their beams diffused by the falling snow, creating a halo of light on the ground. The entire station square was enveloped in a dreamlike atmosphere.
The trees lining the streets were heavily laden with snow, their branches cloaked in white as if wearing winter coats. Occasionally, a gust of wind would rustle through the branches, sending a cascade of snowflakes fluttering down like a winter serenade.
Passersby bundled up in thick winter clothes hurried along, their breaths forming puffs of white mist that quickly dissipated into the swirling snow. Cars slowed their pace, cautiously navigating the snow-covered roads, their tires crunching softly on the icy surface.
I stood at the station exit, mesmerized by the enchanting snowy scene. The distant skyscrapers loomed faintly through the snow-filled air, while the shop signs lining the streets were adorned with a delicate layer of snowflakes, their colors appearing more vibrant against the white backdrop. Occasionally, the crisp ringing of a bell echoed through the air as a tram passed by.
All of this composed a unique winter cityscape of Sendai. Despite the biting cold, my heart was filled with warmth and excitement. This unexpected snowfall had added an element of surprise to our Sendai trip, heightening my anticipation for what this city had to offer.
Sendai, a city nestled in Japan's Tohoku region, is like a refined samurai, possessing both the prosperity of a modern metropolis and the calm, understated elegance of history. Unlike the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, Sendai has its own unique rhythm, inviting you to slow down and savor every moment.
When speaking of Sendai, one cannot overlook Date Masamune, the renowned one-eyed warlord who laid the foundation for this city and left behind a legacy of legendary tales. Cycling along the Hirose River, I felt as though I had traveled back in time to the Warring States period, a time of ambitious warlords. Arriving at the site of Sendai Castle, although the main keep no longer stands, I could still feel the ambition of the Date clan as I stood on Aoba Hill, overlooking the entire city.
Beyond its historical significance, Sendai pulsates with modern energy. Strolling down Jozenji-dori Avenue, a tree-lined boulevard symbolic of the "City of Trees," I was greeted by towering zelkova trees, their leaves filtering the sunlight into dappled patterns on the ground. Fashionable cafes and stylish boutiques line the street, tempting passersby to linger. As night falls, Kokubuncho transforms into a different world, illuminated by bright lights and filled with the lively chatter of people. Here, izakayas and restaurants emit enticing aromas, offering the perfect place to experience Sendai's nightlife.
I've heard about a highly-rated yakiniku restaurant called "Ko-tora" near Sendai Station that specialized in high-quality Yonezawa beef, we decided to give it a try. Speaking of Yonezawa beef, it's the pride of Yamagata Prefecture, considered one of Japan's top three wagyu brands alongside Matsusaka and Kobe beef. It's said that during the Edo period, the lord of the Yonezawa domain, Uesugi Yozan, encouraged farmers to raise cattle to revitalize the local economy, laying the foundation for Yonezawa beef's development.
The exquisite taste of Yonezawa beef stems from its blessed natural environment and meticulous farming practices. The Yonezawa Basin, with its fertile soil and pristine water, nurtures cattle with exceptional marbling and tender meat. Farmers dedicate themselves to caring for each cow, not only by providing high-quality feed but even by massaging them and playing music to enhance the meat quality. Consequently, Yonezawa beef has a longer fattening period than regular wagyu, requiring at least 32 months, and must pass strict quality inspections to earn the prestigious "Yonezawa beef" designation.
Stepping into Ko-tora, we were greeted by a warm ambiance with soft lighting and wooden decor. The menu was a tantalizing showcase of Yonezawa beef dishes. Ko-tora carefully selects A5-grade Yonezawa beef, its tender, juicy texture and beautiful marbling making our mouths water just by looking at it.
We opted for the most premium set on the menu, which was reasonably priced and generously portioned. The set included various cuts of Yonezawa beef, allowing us to experience a variety of textures and flavors. As we gazed out the window at the snow falling over Sendai cityscape and savored the sizzling beef, the melt-in-your-mouth tenderness, rich aroma, and sweet flavor instantly captivated our taste buds.
Ko-tora not only excels in meat quality but also provides outstanding service. The staff kindly explained the characteristics of each cut of beef and patiently guided us on how to grill it to perfection. Ko-tora's high-quality beef and attentive service left me with wonderful memories of Sendai's culinary scene.
After our satisfying meal, we headed to "Kanesuto Mu" coffee shop on Jozenji-dori Street in Sendai for afternoon tea. This shop offers a wide selection of coffees from around the world, including mature beans roasted twice over charcoal, daily specials, original blends, and single-origin coffees from various regions and farms.
Pushing open the heavy wooden door of Kanesuto Mu, we felt as if we were instantly transported away from the hustle and bustle of the outside world, entering a tranquil and warm haven. The dark wood decor, paired with soft lighting and the subtle aroma of coffee in the air, allowed us to unwind.
Looking around, we noticed antique furniture and decorations, such as faded old photographs, vintage clocks, and aged wooden cabinets, creating a nostalgic and retro atmosphere. Art pieces adorned the walls, adding a touch of artistic flair.
I chose a window seat where the sunlight streamed through the panes, illuminating the open book on the table. A friendly staff member approached and inquired about our coffee preferences. Expressing our interest in trying their signature coffee, the staff member elaborately described the origins, roasting methods, and flavor profiles of different coffee beans, recommending a few options that would pair well with desserts.
I ordered a cup of charcoal-roasted Mandheling and a slice of homemade cheesecake. The coffee arrived promptly, steaming in a cup, its deep brown color hinting at its rich aroma. With the first sip, the slightly bitter taste with the unique smoky notes of charcoal roasting, full-bodied and lingering, left a delightful impression. Paired with the smooth and delicate cheesecake, it was a true feast for the senses. Time seemed to slow down at Kanesuto Mu. We immersed ourselves in the aroma of coffee and enjoyed the rare tranquility.
以下是仙台市有提供A5等級米澤牛料理的餐廳:
1. 米澤牛燒肉 仔虎 仙台駅前店
2. 仔虎 生牛肉與燒肉 Clisroad店
- 飼養者居住在置賜三市五町,並經米澤牛銘柄推進協議會認定。
- 肉牛種類為黑毛和種且沒有生育經驗的母牛。
- 於米澤牛枝肉市場、東京食肉中央批發市場上市,或是在米澤市食肉中心裡屠宰後,經公益社團法人日本食肉分級協會評鑑分級的半身牛肉。
- 生後月齡32個月以上、經由公益社團法人日本食肉格付協會認定外觀3級以上,且肉質與油脂均屬優良的半身牛肉。
日本東北地區除了米澤牛之外,還有以下這些高級和牛:
- 仙台牛:宮城縣出產的和牛,以其細膩的油花和柔嫩的肉質而聞名。
- 前沢牛:岩手縣出產的和牛,以其高品質和獨特的風味而受到讚譽。
- 花巻牛:岩手縣花卷市出產的和牛,以其優良的肉質和豐富的風味而聞名。
- 藏王牛:宮城縣出產的和牛,以其優質的肉質和獨特的風味而聞名。
以下是仙台市內可以品嚐到極上等級和牛料理的餐廳推薦:
- 仔虎 生牛肉與燒肉 Clisroad店:提供生牛肉和燒肉,在Google上有375則評論,平均4.6顆星。
- Momo:提供高品質和牛料理,在Google上有216則評論,平均4.9顆星。
- 松阪牛焼肉 よきにくや 仙台店:提供松阪牛燒肉,在Google上有54則評論,平均4.8顆星。
- Niku no Ito:提供多種和牛料理,在Google上有154則評論,平均4.5顆星。
- Ushi-Hajime:提供和牛料理,在Google上有83則評論,平均3.7顆星。
- 仙臺牛萄(ビーフロード)至:提供仙台牛料理,在Google上有8則評論,平均4.4顆星。
- 牛舌料理 閣 仙台Vlandome店:提供牛舌料理,在Google上有1817則評論,平均4.5顆星。
- Steak Kojiro Sendai:提供牛排,在Google上有287則評論,平均4.6顆星。
- Kato:提供仙台牛肉料理,在Google上有414則評論,平均4.2顆星。
- 米澤牛燒肉 仔虎 仙台駅前店:提供米澤牛燒肉,在Google上有1011則評論,平均4.5顆星。
- Matsuzakaya:提供和牛料理,在Google上有207則評論,平均4.7顆星。
- 東山 仙台本店:提供和牛料理,在Google上有874則評論,平均4.0顆星。
- 牛正仙台店:提供和牛料理,在Google上有48則評論,平均4.3顆星。
- Sendai Habile Vent Wagyu:提供和牛料理,在Google上有205則評論,平均4.5顆星。
- Gozoroppu Sendai:提供和牛料理,在Google上有286則評論,平均4.3顆星。
- Yakiniku no Ito, Sendaiekimae:提供和牛燒肉,在Google上有156則評論,平均4.0顆星。
- 仙台牛焼肉 花牛(ハナギュウ):提供仙台牛燒肉,在Google上有181則評論,平均4.3顆星。
- Kotora Kokubuncho Shop:提供和牛料理,在Google上有347則評論,平均4.4顆星。
以下是最上屋旅館的相關參考資料:
【宮城】江戸時代創業の湯治宿 鎌先温泉 最上屋旅館 ~宮城県白石市
鎌先温泉 最上屋旅館 蔵王連峰の山麓に佇む木造老舗旅館「奥州の薬湯」に泊まってきた
日本秘湯を守る会 鎌先温泉 最上屋旅館 文化財中の大正浪漫な名建築【女1人旅】
宮城縣有一些歷史悠久的溫泉。以下列出幾個宮城縣著名的溫泉區,以及提供源泉掛流式天然溫泉的旅館:
- 最便捷交通方式:電車轉乘巴士。
- 所需時間:約 1 小時 59 分鐘。
- 費用:1680 日圓。
- 路線:從仙台站搭乘 JR 陸羽東線到鳴子溫泉站,再轉乘巴士到鳴子溫泉鄉。
- 鳴子飯店: 這家旅館評價數量較多,評分也相對較高。旅館提供自助餐和卡拉 OK 等設施,並設有典雅的溫泉浴場。雖然無法從線上資訊確認是否為源泉掛流,但評論中提及溫泉體驗不錯,可以列入考慮。
- 鳴子溫泉 湯元 吉祥: 這家現代化的溫泉旅館提供時尚的客房和室內外溫泉浴場。評論中提到其溫泉設施舒適,且服務品質良好。同樣,無法確認是否為源泉掛流,但可以參考更多線上評論和旅館官網資訊。
- 鳴子溫泉 西多賀旅館: 這家旅館提供帶小廚房的簡約客房,並設有溫泉浴場。雖然評價數量相對較少,但評分相對較高。評論中提到其溫泉舒適且價格合理,可以作為另一個選擇。 由於資訊有限,無法確認是否為源泉掛流,建議您參考旅館官網或其他訂房網站以取得更多資訊。
- 最便捷交通方式:電車。
- 所需時間:約 56 分鐘。
- 費用:580 日圓。
- 路線:從仙台站搭乘 JR 仙山線到作並站。
- 鷹泉閣岩松旅館: 這家旅館以其歷史悠久的建築和優美的河畔景色而聞名。許多評論提到其服務親切、料理美味,且提供舒適的客房和多種溫泉設施,包括露天風呂。雖然無法確認是否為源泉掛流,但其溫泉品質普遍受到好評。
- 一の坊: 一の坊是一間現代化的溫泉旅館,提供寬敞舒適的客房和多種溫泉設施,包括露天風呂和私人風呂。旅館也以其精緻的懷石料理而聞名。許多評論提到其溫泉水質良好,且部分溫泉池是源泉掛流。
- 最便捷交通方式:巴士。
- 所需時間:約 49 分鐘。
- 費用:免費 (根據 Google Maps 資料,但建議再次確認)。
- 路線:從仙台站西口巴士總站搭乘巴士到秋保溫泉。
- 篝火の湯 緑水亭: 這家旅館以其精緻的客房、美味的料理和多種溫泉設施而聞名。許多評論提到其服務周到、環境清幽,且提供舒適的住宿體驗。旅館也標榜其使用源泉掛流的天然溫泉。
- TAOYA秋保 岩沼屋: 這家旅館提供多種房型和溫泉設施,包括露天風呂和私人風呂。許多評論提到其價格合理、餐點美味,且適合家庭旅遊。雖然無法確認是否為源泉掛流,但其溫泉品質普遍受到好評。
- 佐勘: 這家旅館提供多種房型和溫泉設施,包括露天風呂和私人風呂。旅館也以其美味的料理而聞名。許多評論提到其溫泉水質良好,且部分溫泉池是源泉掛流。
- 最便捷交通方式:電車轉乘計程車或巴士。
- 所需時間:電車約 1 小時 3 分鐘,加上計程車或巴士時間約 10-20 分鐘。
- 費用:電車費用另計,計程車或巴士費用另計。
- 路線:從仙台站搭乘 JR 東北本線到白石站,再轉乘計程車或巴士到鎌先溫泉。
以下還有幾家於宮城縣,且是日本秘湯守護協會成員的旅館,以及大致的交通方式:
1. 青根温泉 湯元 不忘閣:
- 從仙台車站搭乘 JR 仙山線到愛子站。
- 從愛子站搭乘巴士前往青根溫泉。
- 從青根溫泉巴士站步行前往旅館。
2. 名湯秘湯うなぎ湯の宿旬樹庵琢ひで:
- 從仙台車站搭乘 JR 新幹線到鳴子溫泉站。
- 從鳴子溫泉站搭乘巴士或計程車前往。
- 抵達鳴子溫泉後,可能需要步行一段路才能到達旅館。