Jan 2025【日本東北】溫泉三昧之旅② 在大雪飄落的雪國，追尋秘湯之宿與極上美食（仙台～品嚐極上米澤牛＆奧羽的藥湯-鎌先溫泉）
抬頭望去，天空灰濛濛一片，雪花像無數白色精靈般，輕盈地舞動著，飄落在我的髮梢、肩頭，瞬間融化成晶瑩剔透的水珠。路燈的光芒穿透雪花，在地上投射出一個個朦朧的光圈，整個車站廣場籠罩在一片夢幻般的氛圍中。
車站前的行道樹上，積雪厚厚地覆蓋著枝椏，彷彿披上了一件雪白的冬衣。偶爾，一陣風吹過，樹枝輕輕搖晃，雪花便簌簌落下，像是在演奏一首冬日戀歌。
來往的行人裹著厚厚的冬衣，腳步匆匆，呼出的熱氣在空中形成一團團白霧，很快又消散在風雪中。路上的車輛也放慢了速度，小心翼翼地行駛著，車輪碾過積雪，發出沙沙的聲響。
我站在車站出口，靜靜地欣賞著這迷人的雪景。遠處的高樓大廈在雪幕中若隱若現，街道兩旁的商店招牌被雪花裝點得格外醒目，偶爾傳來幾聲清脆的鈴鐺聲，那是電車駛過時發出的聲音。
這一切，構成了一幅獨特的冬日仙台街景。儘管寒風刺骨，但我的心中卻充滿了溫暖和興奮。這場突如其來的大雪，為我們的仙台之旅增添了一份預料之外的驚喜。
仙台，這座位於日本東北的城市，就像一位溫文儒雅的武士，既有著現代都市的繁華，也保留著歷史的沉穩與內斂。這裡，不似東京那般步履匆忙，卻有著自己獨特的節奏，讓人不自覺地放慢腳步，細細品味。
說到仙台，不得不提伊達政宗，這位獨眼的名將，為這座城市奠定了基礎，也留下了許多傳奇故事。騎上單車，沿著廣瀨川前行，我彷彿穿越時空，回到那個群雄逐鹿的戰國時代。來到仙台城跡，雖然天守閣已不復存在，但站在青葉山丘上，俯瞰整個城市，依然能感受到當年伊達家族的雄心壯志。
除了歷史的厚重，仙台也充滿了現代的活力。漫步在定禪寺通，這條被譽為「森林之都」象徵的林蔭大道，高聳的櫸樹在兩旁列隊歡迎，陽光透過枝葉灑落地面，形成一片片斑駁的光影。街道兩旁，時尚的咖啡廳、精緻的商店鱗次櫛比，讓人流連忘返。而夜晚的國分町，則是另一番景象，燈火通明，人聲鼎沸，各式各樣的居酒屋、餐廳散發著誘人的香氣，這裡是體驗仙台夜生活的不二之選。
聽聞仙台車站附近有一家評價很高的「仔虎」燒肉店，專門提供高品質的米澤牛，我們決定前往一探究竟。說起米澤牛，那可是山形縣的驕傲，與松阪牛、神戶牛並列日本三大和牛。據說早在江戶時代，米澤藩主上杉鷹山為了振興當地經濟，便鼓勵農民飼養牛隻，這也奠定了米澤牛的發展基礎。
米澤牛的美味，來自於其得天獨厚的生長環境和嚴謹的飼養管理。米澤盆地擁有肥沃的土壤和清澈的水源，孕育出肉質細膩、油花均勻的米澤牛。農民們悉心照料每一頭牛，不僅餵養優質飼料，甚至還會幫牠們按摩、聽音樂，只為提升肉質。也因此，米澤牛的飼養期比一般和牛更長，需達32個月以上，且必須通過嚴格的品質檢驗，才能冠上「米澤牛」的美名。
走進仔虎燒肉店，溫暖的燈光和木質裝潢營造出舒適的用餐氛圍。翻開菜單，琳瑯滿目的米澤牛料理令人食指大動。仔虎嚴選A5等級的米澤牛，肉質鮮嫩多汁，油花分布猶如藝術品，光是看著就讓人垂涎欲滴。
我們點了店內最上等的和牛套餐，價格合理份量也很足。套餐中包含多種不同部位的米澤牛，可以一次品嚐到不同的口感和風味。看著窗外降下大雪的仙台市街景色，當烤得滋滋作響的牛肉送入口中，那入口即化的口感、豐富的油脂香氣和甜味，瞬間征服了我的味蕾。
仔虎燒肉店不僅肉質出色，服務也相當到位。店員親切地介紹各種牛肉部位的特色，還細心地教導如何烤出最佳口感。仔虎燒肉店的高品質牛肉和貼心服務，讓我對仙台的美食，留下了非常美好的記憶。
吃飽後，我們接著前往仙台這座城市的心臟地帶——定禪寺通。兩旁高聳的櫸樹篩落陽光，美得令人屏息。就在這片城市綠洲中，一陣迷人的香氣吸引了我，領著我來到了一間小巧的咖啡館，招牌上寫著「咖巢多夢」。
這家咖啡館的門面不大，位在二樓，木質的裝潢散發著溫暖的氣息，彷彿是森林中的一座溫馨小屋。這家小店提供來自世界各地農場精選的咖啡、經過炭火二次烘焙的成熟咖啡豆、每日特選咖啡、原創混合咖啡以及來自不同地區和農場的純咖啡。
推開珈巢多夢咖啡館的那扇老舊木門，彷彿瞬間隔絕了外界的喧囂，踏入了一個靜謐而溫暖的小天地。深色木質調的裝潢，搭配著柔和的燈光，空氣中瀰漫著一股淡淡的咖啡香氣，讓人不自覺地放鬆下來。
幾張小桌子和吧台就佔據了大部分的空間。但這絲毫沒有影響它的魅力，反而更添了一份親切和溫馨。昏黃的燈光下，牆上掛著幾幅照片，記錄著咖啡豆的旅程，從遙遠的異國他鄉，到這間小小的咖啡館，每一張都訴說著一個關於風味與堅持的故事。
環顧四周，店內擺放著一些古董家具和擺飾，像是泛黃的老照片、古樸的鐘錶，以及帶著歲月痕跡的木櫃，散發出一種懷舊復古的氛圍。牆上掛著幾幅藝術畫作，增添了一絲文藝氣息。
空氣中彌漫著淡淡的爵士樂，與咖啡的香氣交織在一起，構成了一曲令人陶醉的交響樂。老闆是一位看起來頗有年紀的先生，戴著眼鏡，專注地站在吧台後，手沖著咖啡。他的動作熟練而優雅，像一位藝術家在創作自己的作品。從磨豆、注水到萃取，每一個步驟都充滿了儀式感
我點了一杯炭火烘焙的曼特寧，以及一份手工草莓起司蛋糕。不久後咖啡送上來了，熱氣騰騰的杯中，咖啡液呈現深邃的褐色，散發著濃郁的香氣。輕啜一口，微苦的口感中帶著炭火烘焙的獨特香氣，醇厚而回甘，令人回味無窮。搭配著綿密細緻的草莓起司蛋糕，更是一場味覺的饗宴。在珈巢多夢，時間彷彿慢了下來。我們沉浸在咖啡的香氣中，享受著這份難得的寧靜與愜意。
Stepping out of the warm Shinkansen carriage, a wave of icy air hit me, and I instinctively pulled my scarf tighter. Outside Sendai Station, a flurry of snowflakes swirled down like goose feathers, blanketing the world in a pristine white.
Looking up, the sky was a hazy grey, the snowflakes dancing like countless white sprites. They landed softly on my hair and shoulders, instantly melting into crystal-clear droplets. The streetlights cast a dim glow, their beams diffused by the falling snow, creating a halo of light on the ground. The entire station square was enveloped in a dreamlike atmosphere.
The trees lining the streets were heavily laden with snow, their branches cloaked in white as if wearing winter coats. Occasionally, a gust of wind would rustle through the branches, sending a cascade of snowflakes fluttering down like a winter serenade.
Passersby bundled up in thick winter clothes hurried along, their breaths forming puffs of white mist that quickly dissipated into the swirling snow. Cars slowed their pace, cautiously navigating the snow-covered roads, their tires crunching softly on the icy surface.
I stood at the station exit, mesmerized by the enchanting snowy scene. The distant skyscrapers loomed faintly through the snow-filled air, while the shop signs lining the streets were adorned with a delicate layer of snowflakes, their colors appearing more vibrant against the white backdrop. Occasionally, the crisp ringing of a bell echoed through the air as a tram passed by.
All of this composed a unique winter cityscape of Sendai. Despite the biting cold, my heart was filled with warmth and excitement. This unexpected snowfall had added an element of surprise to our Sendai trip, heightening my anticipation for what this city had to offer.
Sendai, a city nestled in Japan's Tohoku region, is like a refined samurai, possessing both the prosperity of a modern metropolis and the calm, understated elegance of history. Unlike the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, Sendai has its own unique rhythm, inviting you to slow down and savor every moment.
When speaking of Sendai, one cannot overlook Date Masamune, the renowned one-eyed warlord who laid the foundation for this city and left behind a legacy of legendary tales. Cycling along the Hirose River, I felt as though I had traveled back in time to the Warring States period, a time of ambitious warlords. Arriving at the site of Sendai Castle, although the main keep no longer stands, I could still feel the ambition of the Date clan as I stood on Aoba Hill, overlooking the entire city.
Beyond its historical significance, Sendai pulsates with modern energy. Strolling down Jozenji-dori Avenue, a tree-lined boulevard symbolic of the "City of Trees," I was greeted by towering zelkova trees, their leaves filtering the sunlight into dappled patterns on the ground. Fashionable cafes and stylish boutiques line the street, tempting passersby to linger. As night falls, Kokubuncho transforms into a different world, illuminated by bright lights and filled with the lively chatter of people. Here, izakayas and restaurants emit enticing aromas, offering the perfect place to experience Sendai's nightlife.
I've heard about a highly-rated yakiniku restaurant called "Ko-tora" near Sendai Station that specialized in high-quality Yonezawa beef, we decided to give it a try. Speaking of Yonezawa beef, it's the pride of Yamagata Prefecture, considered one of Japan's top three wagyu brands alongside Matsusaka and Kobe beef. It's said that during the Edo period, the lord of the Yonezawa domain, Uesugi Yozan, encouraged farmers to raise cattle to revitalize the local economy, laying the foundation for Yonezawa beef's development.
The exquisite taste of Yonezawa beef stems from its blessed natural environment and meticulous farming practices. The Yonezawa Basin, with its fertile soil and pristine water, nurtures cattle with exceptional marbling and tender meat. Farmers dedicate themselves to caring for each cow, not only by providing high-quality feed but even by massaging them and playing music to enhance the meat quality. Consequently, Yonezawa beef has a longer fattening period than regular wagyu, requiring at least 32 months, and must pass strict quality inspections to earn the prestigious "Yonezawa beef" designation.
Stepping into Ko-tora, we were greeted by a warm ambiance with soft lighting and wooden decor. The menu was a tantalizing showcase of Yonezawa beef dishes. Ko-tora carefully selects A5-grade Yonezawa beef, its tender, juicy texture and beautiful marbling making our mouths water just by looking at it.
We opted for the most premium set on the menu, which was reasonably priced and generously portioned. The set included various cuts of Yonezawa beef, allowing us to experience a variety of textures and flavors. As we gazed out the window at the snow falling over Sendai cityscape and savored the sizzling beef, the melt-in-your-mouth tenderness, rich aroma, and sweet flavor instantly captivated our taste buds.
Ko-tora not only excels in meat quality but also provides outstanding service. The staff kindly explained the characteristics of each cut of beef and patiently guided us on how to grill it to perfection. Ko-tora's high-quality beef and attentive service left me with wonderful memories of Sendai's culinary scene.
After our satisfying meal, we headed to "Kanesuto Mu" coffee shop on Jozenji-dori Street in Sendai for afternoon tea. This shop offers a wide selection of coffees from around the world, including mature beans roasted twice over charcoal, daily specials, original blends, and single-origin coffees from various regions and farms.
Pushing open the heavy wooden door of Kanesuto Mu, we felt as if we were instantly transported away from the hustle and bustle of the outside world, entering a tranquil and warm haven. The dark wood decor, paired with soft lighting and the subtle aroma of coffee in the air, allowed us to unwind.
Looking around, we noticed antique furniture and decorations, such as faded old photographs, vintage clocks, and aged wooden cabinets, creating a nostalgic and retro atmosphere. Art pieces adorned the walls, adding a touch of artistic flair.
I chose a window seat where the sunlight streamed through the panes, illuminating the open book on the table. A friendly staff member approached and inquired about our coffee preferences. Expressing our interest in trying their signature coffee, the staff member elaborately described the origins, roasting methods, and flavor profiles of different coffee beans, recommending a few options that would pair well with desserts.
I ordered a cup of charcoal-roasted Mandheling and a slice of homemade cheesecake. The coffee arrived promptly, steaming in a cup, its deep brown color hinting at its rich aroma. With the first sip, the slightly bitter taste with the unique smoky notes of charcoal roasting, full-bodied and lingering, left a delightful impression. Paired with the smooth and delicate cheesecake, it was a true feast for the senses. Time seemed to slow down at Kanesuto Mu. We immersed ourselves in the aroma of coffee and enjoyed the rare tranquility.
