Jan 2025【日本東北】溫泉三昧之旅③ 在大雪飄落的雪國，追尋秘湯之宿與極上美食（宮城縣～鹽釜水產市場的美味海鮮丼＆中之澤溫泉）

1月 24, 2025

早上退房後，請旅館幫忙叫了兩台計程車前來載我們前往白石藏王車站。當我們在白石藏王站下車時，雪花翩翩起舞，令人著迷。眼前，藏王連峰巍峨聳立，山頂覆蓋著皚皚白雪，在陽光的照耀下閃閃發光，宛如一條銀白色的巨龍，盤踞在天際線上。

我佇立在車站前，靜靜地欣賞著這壯麗的景色。藏王連峰的雪峰，層巒疊嶂，綿延不絕，展現出大自然的鬼斧神工。山坡上的樹木，有的被白雪完全覆蓋，形成一片片雪白的森林；有的則只在枝頭點綴著雪花，像是穿上了精緻的銀色花邊。

進入車站內，舒適的等候區讓人暫時躲避寒冷，而迷人的木芥子娃娃展示則吸引著我的目光。這些並不是普通的娃娃；它們是「鳴子木芥子」，以其獨特的工藝和歷史而聞名，與這個地區有著深深的交織。

我很好奇，於是深入研究了他們的故事。這一切開始於幾個世紀前，在江戶時代的東北地區中心。人們認為，木芥子娃娃的起源與「木芥子屋」有關，木芥子屋是技藝精湛的木工，專門製作木製物品。這些工匠居住在東北各地的溫泉村，他們在寧靜的冬季運用自己的技藝製作出這些樸素而優雅的娃娃。

最早的木芥子被稱為“傳統木芥子”，是由東北地區溫泉村的木芥子匠人製作的。每個地區都形成了自己獨特的風格，具有獨特的頭部形狀、身體圖案和繪畫技巧。這些娃娃不僅僅是玩物；它們被賦予了更深刻的含義，通常被用作感情的象徵或紀念品。

隨著時間的推移，木芥子娃娃的流行範圍擴展到了溫泉村之外。到了20世紀中葉，「創意木芥子」開始出現，展現出更廣泛的設計和藝術表現。這些當代木芥子通常具有複雜的細節、鮮豔的色彩和創新的形式，反映了創作者不斷發展的藝術性。

如今，木芥子娃娃被視為日本民間藝術的象徵，體現了工匠精神和傳統。它們讓我愉快地回憶起穿越東北的旅程，那是一個歷史與創造力交織的地區。

在車站等車時，我偶然看到一塊醒目的紅色看板，上面寫著斗大的標題「感受烽火歲月，造訪真田幸村的故鄉」，原來宮城縣的由利本莊市、白石市和藏王町都與戰國時代的名將真田幸村有著深厚的淵源！看來我的宮城之旅，除了享受自然風光，還可以來一趟歷史巡禮呢！

看板上詳細介紹了這三個地方與真田家的關係：

由利本莊市似乎是真田幸村女兒「阿梅」的夫家所在地。阿梅嫁給了本莊藩的藩主，並在此度過餘生。看板上還提到，當地保留著阿梅的墓地、牌位和一些她生前使用的物品，感覺可以感受到這位歷史人物的生活軌跡呢！

白石市則是真田幸村的次女「阿菖蒲」的出嫁之地。阿菖蒲嫁給了片倉家的當家，而片倉家正是輔佐伊達政宗的名臣。看板上特別強調白石城是「阿梅公主生活過的城市」，看來這裡也保留了不少與真田家相關的歷史遺跡和故事。

藏王町更是不得了，這裡竟然是「全國唯一真田幸村血脈的故鄉」！原來真田幸村的次男「大八」在大阪夏之陣後逃亡到此，並隱姓埋名地生活下去。藏王町還保存著真田幸村後代的墓地和家譜，真是太珍貴了！

看來這三個地方都與真田家族有著千絲萬縷的聯繫，而且各自擁有獨特的歷史和文化。如果有時間深入探訪這些地方，必定能感受戰國時代的風起雲湧，以及真田家族的傳奇故事！

After checking out in the morning, I asked the hotel to call two taxis to take us to Shiroishi Zao Station. When we got off the train at Shiroishi Zao Station, the snowflakes were dancing, which was mesmerizing. Before our eyes, the Zao Mountains stand majestically, with their peaks covered with white snow, glittering in the sunlight, like a giant silver dragon hovering on the skyline.

I stood before the station, mesmerized by this grand spectacle. The snow-covered peaks of the Zao mountain range, layer upon layer, stretched endlessly, showcasing the awe-inspiring power of nature. The trees on the slopes were adorned in white, some completely enveloped in snow, forming a pristine white forest, while others were delicately decorated with snowflakes, like intricate silver lace.

Inside the station, a cozy waiting area offered respite from the cold, and my eyes were drawn to a captivating display of kokeshi dolls. These weren't just any dolls; they were "Naruko kokeshi," renowned for their unique craftsmanship and history, deeply intertwined with this very region.

Intrigued, I delved into their story. It all began centuries ago, in the heart of the Tohoku region, during the Edo period. The origins of kokeshi dolls are believed to be connected to the "kijiya," skilled woodturners who crafted wooden objects. These artisans, residing in hot spring villages scattered throughout Tohoku, would utilize their skills during the quiet winter months to create these simple yet elegant dolls.

The earliest kokeshi, known as "traditional kokeshi," emerged from the hands of these kijiya in the onsen villages of Tohoku. Each region developed its own distinct style, with unique head shapes, body patterns, and painting techniques. These dolls weren't just playthings; they were imbued with a deeper meaning, often given as tokens of affection or souvenirs.

As time passed, the popularity of kokeshi dolls spread beyond the hot spring villages. By the mid-20th century, "creative kokeshi" began to emerge, showcasing a wider range of designs and artistic expressions. These contemporary kokeshi often feature intricate details, vibrant colors, and innovative forms, reflecting the evolving artistry of the creators.

Today, kokeshi dolls are cherished as symbols of Japanese folk art, embodying the spirit of craftsmanship and tradition.

While waiting for my train at the station, I came across a striking red signboard with the bold headline "Experience the Warring States Period, Visit the Hometown of Sanada Yukimura." It turns out that Yurihonjo City, Shiroishi City, and Zao Town in Miyagi Prefecture all have deep connections to the famous Warring States period general, Sanada Yukimura! Looks like my trip to Miyagi will include not only beautiful scenery but also a journey through history!

The signboard detailed the relationship between these three places and the Sanada clan:

Yurihonjo City appears to be where Sanada Yukimura's daughter, "Oume," married and settled down. She married the lord of the Honjo domain and spent the rest of her life there. The signboard mentioned that her grave, memorial tablet, and some of her personal belongings are preserved in the city. It seems like a place where I could get a glimpse into the life of this historical figure!

Shiroishi City is where Sanada Yukimura's second daughter, "Oshobu," was married off to the head of the Katakura clan, who were retainers of the famous Date Masamune. The signboard emphasized that Shiroishi Castle was "the city where Princess Oume lived," suggesting that this city also holds many historical sites and stories related to the Sanada clan.

Zao Town is even more remarkable – it's "the only place in Japan where Sanada Yukimura's bloodline continues"! Apparently, Yukimura's second son, "Daihachi," fled here after the Summer Siege of Osaka and lived in secrecy. Zao Town still preserves the graves and family tree of Sanada Yukimura's descendants, which is truly precious!

It seems these three places are intricately connected to the Sanada clan and each boasts its own unique history and culture. If I have time to explore these places in depth, I'm sure I can feel the turbulent times of the Warring States period and the legendary story of the Sanada clan come to life!

從車站月台眺望藏王連峰的的美景

從白石藏王車站搭乘新幹線前往仙台

從仙台車站乘坐仙石線列車，大約半小時可抵達東鹽釜車站

陽光灑落在仙台車站，我懷著雀躍的心情，踏上前往鹽釜水產市場的旅程。這趟美食探險的第一步，就是搭乘JR仙石線。月台上，指示牌清晰地指引著方向，我找到往「石卷」方向的列車，踏入車廂，找到一個靠窗的位置坐下。

隨著列車緩緩駛離車站，眼前的景色也逐漸從繁華的都市轉變為寧靜的海岸風光。窗外，湛藍的海面波光粼粼，點綴著幾艘漁船，偶爾還能瞥見海鷗翱翔天際的身影，讓人期待不已。

大約30分鐘後，列車抵達「東鹽釜」站。走出車站，迎面而來的是帶著鹹味的清新空氣，海港城市的氣息撲鼻而來。我招了一輛計程車，向司機說明目的地：「鹽釜水產市場」。

一路上，我望著窗外，街道兩旁有著許多與海洋相關的店家和裝飾，讓人感受到濃厚的漁業文化。大約10分鐘後，計程車停在了一棟充滿活力的建築物前，這裡就是我期待已久的鹽釜水產市場。

當我們走進熙熙攘攘的鹽釜魚市場時，一股市場特有的味道撲面而來。地面上一片忙碌，喊叫聲、笑聲、板條箱的碰撞聲和刀子敲擊砧板的節奏聲交織在一起。這不是一個普通的市場；這裡就是鹽釜，宮城縣漁業文化的心臟地帶。

鹽釜水產市場，正式名稱為「鹽釜水產物仲卸市場」，鹽釜作為海鮮天堂的聲譽已有數百年歷史，其根源深深植根於三陸海岸豐富的漁場。市場本身就是一種文化遺產的見證，迷宮般的市場裡有 100 多個攤位，擺滿了海洋珍品。從鹽釜漁民引以為傲的閃閃發光的鮪魚，到牡蠣和海膽等時令美食，種類繁多，令人驚嘆。

我漫步在色彩繽紛的迷宮中，眼前的景色、聲音和氣味都讓我震撼。商人們自豪地展示他們的商品，齊聲喊著招呼，以最新鮮的漁獲承諾吸引顧客。這種活力具有感染力，一陣陣的活動從黎明前開始，一直持續到下午早些時候。

鹽釜水產市場的亮點之一是「我的海鮮蓋飯」體驗，這個獨特的概念讓遊客能夠創造出個人化的海鮮飯碗。端著一碗熱氣騰騰的米飯，從周圍的攤位上挑選自己最喜歡的海鮮。眼花繚亂的選擇，從多汁的金槍魚到肥美的扇貝，可能性無窮無盡。

但鹽釜水產市場不僅僅是一個吃飯的地方，而是一座活生生的博物館，見證著這座城市豐富的漁業歷史。從最初作為北太平洋捕魚船隊的重要基地，到現在成為日本最大的新鮮鮪魚港口，鹽釜的故事與潮汐的漲落交織在一起。

隨後，我們在市場附近的餐廳吃午餐，我們各點了一份「三陸丼（特上海鮮）」，這是「塩竃丼」的升級版，多了海膽、螃蟹和鮭魚卵，且「限定15食」，售價 3500 日圓。

一上桌我就被這滿滿的新鮮海味給震懾住，這也太澎湃了吧！晶瑩剔透的鮭魚卵閃耀著誘人的光澤，鮮紅的鮪魚肉看起來肥美多汁，還有那飽滿的干貝、Q彈的甜蝦，以及鮮嫩的鮭魚…這根本就是海鮮的嘉年華會嘛！

我迫不及待地夾起一塊鮭魚送入口中，嗯～入口即化，鮮甜的滋味在舌尖上蔓延开来，簡直就是人間美味！再來一口海膽，濃郁的海味瞬間充滿整個口腔，搭配著粒粒分明的米飯，真是太滿足了！

每一種海鮮都處理得恰到好處，不僅新鮮，而且完全沒有腥味，可以吃到食材最原始的鮮甜。就連配角也不馬虎，玉子燒甜甜的，海帶芽清爽可口，薑片更是畫龍點睛，讓整碗丼飯的口感更加豐富。

一下子，不知不覺就把整碗丼飯吃光光，真是太令人滿足了！果然，來到鹽釜水產市場，就是要吃最新鮮的海鮮丼飯啊！這趟旅程真是太值得了！

鹽釜是一個傳統與創新並存的地方，新鮮的海鮮與烹飪創意在這裡相遇。這次經歷將永遠銘刻在我的記憶中，讓我銘記大海的豐富資源和那些畢生致力於將美味送到我們餐桌上的人們的堅韌精神。

The sun streamed through the windows of Sendai Station as I embarked on my journey to Shiogama Fish Market, a sense of excitement bubbling within me. My culinary adventure began with a ride on the JR Senseki Line. Following the clear signage on the platform, I located the train bound for Ishinomaki and settled into a window seat, eager to watch the scenery unfold.

As the train pulled away from the station, the urban landscape gradually gave way to serene coastal views. The sparkling blue waters of the ocean stretched out before me, dotted with fishing boats and the occasional soaring seagull, fueling my anticipation.

After a pleasant 30-minute ride, the train arrived at Higashi-Shiogama Station. Stepping onto the platform, I was greeted by the refreshing scent of the sea, a reminder of the coastal town's identity. I hailed a taxi and gave the driver my destination: "Shiogama Fish Market."

During the short ride, I observed the streetscape through the window, noting the many shops and decorations related to the sea, a testament to the area's strong fishing culture. About 10 minutes later, the taxi pulled up to a vibrant building bustling with activity. This was it – the Shiogama Fish Market I had been so eager to explore.

The salty tang of the sea air filled my nostrils as I stepped into the bustling energy of Shiogama Fish Market. The ground hummed with activity, a symphony of shouts and laughter mingling with the clatter of crates and the rhythmic thud of knives against cutting boards. This was no ordinary market; this was Shiogama, a place where the heart of Miyagi Prefecture's fishing culture beat strong.

Shiogama's reputation as a seafood haven stretched back centuries, its roots firmly planted in the rich fishing grounds of the Sanriku Coast. The market itself, officially known as the "Shiogama Gyosui Nakagai Market," was a sprawling testament to this heritage, a labyrinth of over 100 stalls overflowing with the ocean's bounty. From glistening tuna, the pride of Shiogama's fishermen, to the seasonal delicacies like oysters and sea urchins, the variety was simply staggering.

I wandered through the vibrant maze, my senses overwhelmed by the sights, sounds, and smells. Merchants proudly displayed their wares, their voices rising in a chorus of persuasive calls, enticing customers with promises of the freshest catches. The energy was infectious, a whirlwind of activity that started before dawn and continued until the early afternoon.

One of the highlights of Shiogama Fish Market was the "My Kaisendon" experience. This unique concept allowed people to create their own personalized seafood rice bowl. Armed with a bowl of steaming rice, and handpicking your favorite seafood from the surrounding stalls. With a dizzying array of choices, from succulent tuna to plump scallops, the possibilities were endless.

But Shiogama Fish Market was more than just a place to eat. It was a living museum, a testament to the city's rich fishing history. From its origins as a vital base for the North Pacific fishing fleet to its current status as Japan's leading port for fresh tuna, Shiogama's story was intertwined with the ebb and flow of the tides.

Afterwards, we had lunch at a restaurant near the market. We each ordered the "Sanriku-don (special seafood)," which is an upgraded version of the "Shiogama-don." It comes with extra sea urchin, crab, and salmon roe, and is limited to only 15 servings a day, priced at 3500 yen.

As soon as it arrived, I was blown away by the sheer abundance of fresh seafood overflowing from the bowl. It was an absolute feast for the eyes! The glistening salmon roe sparkled with an alluring sheen, the vibrant red tuna looked succulent and tender, and there were plump scallops, bouncy sweet shrimp, and melt-in-your-mouth salmon... It was like a seafood carnival in a bowl!

I couldn't wait to try it and immediately picked up a piece of salmon. Oh my! It melted in my mouth, releasing a burst of freshness and sweetness that danced on my tongue. It was pure bliss! Then I took a bite of the sea urchin, and the rich, briny flavor instantly filled my senses. Paired with the perfectly cooked rice, it was incredibly satisfying.

Every piece of seafood was expertly prepared, incredibly fresh, and without a hint of fishiness. You could truly savor the natural flavors of each ingredient. Even the supporting cast was impressive: the tamagoyaki (sweet omelet) was delightful, the wakame seaweed was refreshing, and the pickled ginger added a perfect touch of zest, elevating the overall flavor profile of the donburi.

Before I knew it, I had devoured the entire bowl. It was utterly satisfying! As expected, a visit to the Shiogama Fish Market must include indulging in their incredibly fresh seafood donburi! This trip has been absolutely worth it!

Shiogama was a place where tradition and innovation danced hand in hand, where the freshest seafood met culinary creativity. It was an experience that would forever be etched in my memory, a reminder of the incredible bounty of the sea and the enduring spirit of the people who dedicated their lives to bringing it to our tables.

滴上檸檬汁和少許醬油，一口吞下新鮮度不用多說！

中午我們到水產市場對面的這家餐廳吃午餐

這碗三陸丼海鮮蓋飯真的是無與倫比的新鮮又美味！

這是在先台車站買的，以先台的名物「毛豆」做成的像是奶昔的飲料

今天下午我們原本計畫從豬苗代車站，搭乘旅館的送迎巴士到旅館，但是因為下暴雪，導致磐越西線列車停駛，從郡山到豬苗代的這段列車無法搭乘，迫使我們改變計劃，只能從郡山車站前，叫了計程車直接去旅館。計程車駛離熱鬧的郡山市區，蜿蜒深入積雪覆蓋的山區。窗外，原本開闊的湖景逐漸被高聳的樹林取代，偶爾還能瞥見幾間被白雪覆蓋的傳統日式房屋。

沼尻溫泉，又稱中之沢溫泉，坐落在磐梯朝日國立公園內，海拔 1,250 公尺，是一處寧靜的世外桃源。這個僻靜的村莊擁有日本湧出量最多的天然溫泉的稱號，其歷史可以追溯到近四個世紀前的江戶時代。自江戶時代的寶曆年間就以「腸胃名湯」聞名，擁有豐富的強酸性硫磺泉，據說對腸胃疾病、皮膚病等特別有效。

抵達溫泉街時，雪花正輕輕飄落，為這個古老的溫泉小鎮增添了一層夢幻的色彩。我們預訂的「御宿萬葉亭」旅館，就坐落在溫泉街的中心，被一片靜謐的山毛櫸林所環繞。雖然因大雪導致列車停駛，迫使我們的計劃受到影響，但是當計程車終於停在旅館的玄關口時，我的焦慮終於消失了。

走進旅館，溫暖的燈光和木質裝潢，頓時讓人感到放鬆。房間是傳統的和式風格，旅館給我們兩間和式房間合併的客房，空間相當寬敞。榻榻米上鋪著柔軟的床墊，窗外就是白雪皚皚的景色，彷彿置身於世外桃源。

放下行李後，我們迫不及待地換上浴衣，前往溫泉。萬葉亭的溫泉是源泉かけ流し，乳白色的泉水帶著淡淡的硫磺味，泡起來格外滑順舒服。

中之沢溫泉的源頭，沼尻元湯，是從安達太良山的火山中心噴湧而出，每分鐘湧出的溫泉水量高達13,400公升，使其成為日本單一源泉湧出量之冠。這種溫泉水，富含硫磺和其他礦物質，是一種高酸性硫磺泉，pH值為1.7～2.1，酸性如同檸檬汁，卻出奇地舒緩，並以其治療功效而聞名。當地人聲稱它可以舒緩關節疼痛、驅除感冒，甚至可以預防糖尿病。

旅館的露天風呂和貸切露天風呂令人感到相當滿足。周圍是靜謐的山林，白雪覆蓋的樹木在溫泉的蒸汽中若隱若現，宛如仙境一般。當我沉浸在熱氣騰騰的溫泉水中，看著雪花輕輕飄落，一切煩惱都隨之消散。

聽著當地人說，沼尻溫泉的泉水來自於7公里外的安達太良山，那裡正是詩人高村光太郎的詩集《智惠子抄》中提到的「沼之平」、「障子岩」一帶。想到自己正浸泡在如此富有歷史淵源的溫泉中，更增添了一份感動。約莫十年前，我曾經在冬季獨自攀登被白雪覆蓋的安達太良山，當時的情景，至今仍是歷歷在目。

沼尻溫泉最特別之處在於其原始的野溪溫泉風貌。為了確保遊客能夠安全地體驗這一自然奇觀，當地溫泉協會精心維護了曾經險峻的小徑，並提供導覽服務，帶領探險者深入熱氣騰騰的荒野中心地帶。這個村莊被安達太良山、磐梯山和西吾妻山的高聳山峰所環繞，是大自然愛好者的天堂，距離壯觀的達澤不動滝也只需要很短的車程。

夜幕低垂，享受完暖呼呼的溫泉，飢腸轆轆的我們來到旅館的餐廳，準備享用期待已久的晚餐。房間內燈光柔和，木質的桌椅散發著溫暖的氣息，營造出舒適的用餐氛圍。

服務員為我們遞上精緻的菜單，這不是一份普通的菜單，它更像是旅館對在地食材的熱愛與尊重，以及對傳統日式料理的堅持。

菜單品項以優雅的日式書法書寫，充滿著傳統韻味。菜單開頭的「雪化粧の御献立」幾個字，如同詩句一般，宣告這是一場以「雪化粧」為主題的盛宴，讓我想像著窗外白雪皚皚的冬日美景，與眼前這份溫潤的菜單相得益彰。而菜單末端的「御宿万亭料理長」印章，更增添了這份菜單的莊重感，也讓我更加期待今晚的晚宴。

首先登場的是「山の冬あそび」前菜，意思是「冬日山間的嬉戲」，光看名字就讓人聯想到在雪地裡玩耍的快樂場景。柿子凍、烏魚子昆布等，帶來豐富的當季美味。

接著是新鮮直送的生魚片，細緻的刀工將魚肉的美味發揮到極致，鮮甜入口，還有來自青森平飼楓糖鮭魚，搭配會津醬油和自製的蔥醬，想必是道香氣四溢的料理。

暖呼呼的會津長蔥地酒鍋，加入福島牛和伊達雞，以及室井農園的肉厚椎茸與春菊搭配，在寒冷的冬日格外溫暖人心。

旅館的招牌菜——濃厚燒烤芝麻豆腐，香氣四溢，令人垂涎。

再來是冬季時蔬炊合，以及以九十連根、蟹和梅人參搭配的浸地料理，每一道都精緻美味。

Q彈的會津蕎麥麵、以米飯搭配人參油豆腐炊飯、用當地的蔬菜醃製而成的三五八醃漬，清脆爽口。還有蕪餅和三葉的清湯，滋味清甜，溫潤暖胃。

最後的甜點，是以西洋梨製成的雪酪，以及黃豆粉蕨餅搭配季節水果，甜蜜的滋味為這場冬日「雪化粧」盛宴畫下完美句點。

我讚賞地品嚐每一道料理，感受這場視覺與味覺的雙重饗宴。這場以「雪化粧」為主題的晚宴，無疑將成為我旅途中最美好的回憶之一。

今天的旅程，儘管最初在交通上遇到了一些插曲，但我對沼尻溫泉的回憶充滿了溫暖和驚奇。旅館服務人員的親切待客、未經修飾的原始美景，以及令人難忘的雪見露天風呂，為我們的旅程創造了一次難忘的體驗。

This afternoon, our original plan was to take the ryokan's shuttle bus from Inawashiro Station to the inn. However, a blizzard forced the Ban'etsu West Line to suspend service, making the train journey from Koriyama to Inawashiro impossible. This unexpected turn of events forced us to alter our plans. We ended up hailing a taxi from Koriyama Station to take us directly to the ryokan.

As the taxi left the bustling city of Koriyama, it meandered deeper into the snow-covered mountains. The expansive lake views gradually gave way to towering trees, and occasionally we caught glimpses of traditional Japanese houses blanketed in white.

Numajiri Onsen, also known as Nakanosawa Onsen, is nestled within the Bandai Asahi National Park at an elevation of 1,250 meters. This secluded village boasts the title of Japan's most abundant natural hot spring, with a history dating back nearly four centuries to the Edo period. Renowned as the "hot spring for stomach ailments" since the Horeki era (1751-1764) of the Edo period, it features an abundant supply of strong acidic sulfurous hot spring water, said to be particularly effective for gastrointestinal disorders and skin diseases.

As we arrived at the onsen town, snowflakes were gently falling, adding a touch of magic to this ancient hot spring village. Our chosen accommodation, "Oyado Manyotei," was located in the heart of the town, enveloped by a serene beech forest. Though the blizzard and train disruption had thrown our plans into disarray, my anxiety finally dissipated as the taxi pulled up to the ryokan's entrance.

Stepping inside, the warm lighting and wooden decor instantly created a sense of relaxation. Our room was a spacious combination of two traditional Japanese-style rooms, with soft futons laid out on the tatami floor. The view from the window was a picturesque winter wonderland.

We quickly changed into our yukatas and headed to the onsen. Manyotei's hot spring water flows directly from the source, "gensen kake nagashi." The milky white water, with a faint sulfurous scent, was incredibly smooth and soothing.

The source of Nakanosawa Onsen, Numajiri Motoyu, gushes from the volcanic heart of Mount Adatara. It boasts an impressive flow rate of 13,400 liters per minute, making it Japan's champion of single-source hot springs. This potent water, rich in sulfur and other minerals, is a highly acidic sulfur spring with a pH of 1.7-2.1. As acidic as lemon juice, it is surprisingly gentle on the skin and renowned for its therapeutic benefits. Locals claim it can alleviate joint pain, banish colds, and even ward off diabetes.

The ryokan's rotenburo (outdoor bath) and private rotenburo were truly exceptional. Surrounded by serene mountains, the snow-covered trees appeared almost mystical through the rising steam. As I soaked in the hot water, snowflakes gently falling around me, all my worries seemed to melt away.

The locals told me that the water of Numajiri Onsen comes from Mount Adatara, 7 kilometers away. This is the same mountain featured in the poet Kotaro Takamura's collection "Chieko-sho," specifically the areas known as "Numa-no-Taira" and "Shoji-iwa." Knowing that I was bathing in a hot spring with such a rich history and literary connection filled me with a sense of wonder. I recalled my solo winter climbing of snow-covered Mount Adatara about ten years ago, the memories still vivid in my mind.

What truly sets Numajiri Onsen apart is its wild, untamed character. To ensure visitors can safely experience this natural wonder, the local onsen association has carefully maintained the trails, offering guided tours that lead adventurers deep into the heart of the steaming wilderness. The village is surrounded by the towering peaks of Mount Adatara, Mount Bandai, and Mount Nishi-Azuma, making it a paradise for nature lovers. The breathtaking Tarosawa Fudo Falls are also just a short drive away.

As dusk settled, we made our way to the ryokan's dining room, our appetites whetted by a relaxing soak in the onsen. The soft lighting and warm wooden furnishings created a cozy and inviting atmosphere.

The waiter presented us with an exquisite menu, a testament to the inn's dedication to showcasing local ingredients and the traditions of Japanese cuisine.

The menu, adorned with elegant calligraphy, exuded a sense of tradition. The title, "Snow-Kissed Feast," was poetic, evoking images of the winter wonderland outside and complementing the warm ambiance of the ryokan. The chef's personal seal at the end of the menu added a touch of formality and heightened our anticipation for the culinary experience to come.

Our feast began with the "Winter Play in the Mountains" appetizer, a playful assortment of seasonal delicacies including persimmon jelly and dried mullet roe with kelp.

Next came a platter of fresh sashimi, highlighting the chef's skillful knife work and the natural sweetness of the seafood. Melt-in-your-mouth maple salmon from Aomori, served with Aizu soy sauce and homemade scallion sauce, promised a burst of flavor.

A steaming hot pot, simmering with local Aizu leeks and sake, warmed our souls. This was followed by a dish featuring prized Fukushima beef and Date chicken, accompanied by thick-cut shiitake mushrooms and spring chrysanthemum.

The ryokan's signature dish, a "yaki goma tofu" with a rich, smoky flavor, was a highlight.

A medley of winter vegetables simmered in a delicate broth, followed by a refreshing soba noodle course made with local Aizu buckwheat flour.

Rice with simmered burdock root, pickled local vegetables, and a clear soup with "mitsuba" (Japanese wild parsley) cleansed the palate.

The meal concluded with a sweet finale of pear sorbet and "kinako warabi mochi" (bracken starch cakes with roasted soybean flour) accompanied by seasonal fruits, a perfect ending to our "Snow-Kissed Feast."

I savored each dish, appreciating the visual artistry and exquisite flavors. This culinary journey was undoubtedly a highlight of my travels, a memory I will cherish long after my departure.