Jan 2025【日本東北】溫泉三昧之旅① 在大雪飄落的雪國，追尋秘湯之宿與極上美食（秋田～探訪有日本溫泉界頂點之稱的秘湯乳頭溫泉鄉）
下了飛機，一股寒風迎面而來，我不禁打了個寒顫，但也同時被眼前這片銀裝素裹的世界深深吸引。這就是東北的冬天啊！雖然寒冷，但卻充滿了獨特的魅力，如同一個冰雪的童話世界，等待著我們去探索。
我知道，這場大雪只是個開始，接下來幾天的旅程，將會是一場與冰雪共舞之旅。但我已經迫不及待地想要擁抱這片雪國大地，體驗這份獨一無二的冬季風情。
秋田位於日本本州島的北部，瀕臨日本海，冬天受到西伯利亞冷氣團的影響，降雪量非常豐沛。聽說這裡的雪可以堆積到好幾公尺高呢！
秋田的冬天，雖然寒冷，卻充滿了活力和熱情。首先，你可以在森吉山滑雪場滑雪，從雪道上俯衝而下，感受速度與激情！聽說那裡的樹冰也很有名，可惜這次我們沒時間去欣賞。
除了滑雪，秋田還有許多有趣的冬季活動。在橫手市的「橫手雪屋祭」，你可以看到各式各樣的雪屋，晚上點上燈，更是夢幻！聽說在雪屋裡還可以喝甜酒、吃麻糬呢！
當然，來到秋田，也別忘了品嚐當地的冬季美食。熱騰騰的米棒鍋，配上秋田特產的比內地雞和新鮮蔬菜，暖胃又暖心！還有，在寒冬中泡個暖呼呼的溫泉，更是人生一大享受！
剛踏進秋田機場的入境大廳，我就被眼前一個氣勢磅礡的「生剝鬼」給震懾住了！他身披粗獷的稻草蓑衣，手持木棒和裝滿白色紙片的桶子，臉上那副紅色面具更是令人印象深刻：獠牙外露、怒目圓睜，彷彿下一秒就要衝過來似的。
「生剝鬼」（なまはげ）是秋田縣男鹿半島的傳統民俗人物，也是當地家喻戶曉的傳奇角色。據說，生剝鬼是山神的使者，每年除夕夜都會來到村莊，挨家挨戶地驅趕懶惰和邪惡，為人們帶來好運和豐收。他們會大聲吼叫：「有沒有愛哭的小孩？有沒有不聽話的小孩？」，嚇唬孩子們要乖乖聽話，認真學習。
雖然生剝鬼看起來很可怕，但他們其實是善良的，是來保護人們的。生剝鬼的形象也反映了秋田人民勤勞勇敢、不畏艱難的精神。
生剝鬼的故事世代相傳，至今已有數百年的歷史。每年除夕夜，男鹿半島的村民都會舉行「生剝鬼節」，年輕人會裝扮成生剝鬼的樣子，挨家挨戶地拜訪，祈求來年平安順遂。
接著，我們從機場搭乘路線巴士來到了秋田車站，上次來造訪這裡，已是十年前的往事了。一踏進車站，我就被眼前這隻巨大的秋田犬玩偶給吸引住！它憨態可掬地趴在車站大廳中央，吐著粉嫩的舌頭，彷彿在熱情地歡迎每一位到訪的旅人。這正是秋田的象徵——忠誠又可愛的秋田犬啊！
除了秋田犬，秋田也是日本著名的稻米產地，孕育出美味的「秋田小町」米。趁著等車的時間，我們在車站內的“New Days”便利店逛了逛，買了一些紀念品，以及四盒便當，準備等會兒帶上新幹線車廂品嚐。
接下來，我們搭乘新幹線小町號前往田澤湖。坐在舒適的新幹線車廂裡，窗外飛馳而過的景色從城市逐漸變為銀裝素裹的田野，一望無際的雪白讓人心曠神怡。雖然是寒冬季節，但車廂內溫暖如春，讓人昏昏欲睡。
大約一個小時後，新幹線抵達了田澤湖站。一下車，一股清冽的空氣撲面而來，令我精神為之一振。田澤湖是日本最深的湖泊，以其神秘的藍色湖水和辰子像的傳說而聞名，我在學生時期曾經造訪過。不過，這次我們的目的地是更深處的秘境——乳頭溫泉鄉。
As the plane descended through the thick clouds, the world below transformed into a sea of white. Large snowflakes danced in the air like goose feathers, blanketing everything in a pristine layer of snow. Buildings, trees, and roads blended into a canvas of white, their outlines blurred and indistinguishable.
Stepping off the plane, a gust of cold wind sent shivers down my spine, yet I was captivated by the enchanting winter wonderland before me. This was winter in Tohoku! Though cold, it exuded a unique charm, like a fairytale world of ice and snow waiting to be explored.
I knew this heavy snowfall was just the beginning, a prelude to the days of dancing with the snow that lay ahead. I was eager to embrace this winter wonderland and experience its unique charm.
Akita prefecture is located in the northern part of Honshu Island, Japan, facing the Sea of Japan. In winter, influenced by the Siberian cold air mass, it experiences incredibly heavy snowfall. I've heard the snow can pile up several meters high!
Winter in Akita, though cold, is full of life and passion. First off, you can go skiing at the Moriyoshizan Ski Resort, speeding down the slopes and feeling the rush! I hear the "juhyo" (ice monsters) there are famous too, but unfortunately, we don't have time to see them this trip.
Besides skiing, Akita offers many other interesting winter activities. At the Yokote Kamakura Festival in Yokote City, you can see all sorts of snow huts, which look even more magical when lit up at night! I hear you can even drink sweet sake and eat mochi inside them!
Of course, when you come to Akita, don't forget to try the local winter cuisine. A steaming hot "kiritanpo nabe" (rice stick hot pot) with Akita's specialty Hinai chicken and fresh vegetables will warm you right up! And soaking in a nice hot spring during the cold winter is pure bliss!
Upon entering the arrival hall of Akita Airport, I was immediately struck by the imposing figure of a "Namahage". Clad in a wild, straw raincoat, he carried a wooden staff and a bucket filled with white paper strips. His red mask was particularly striking, with its fangs bared and eyes wide open in a fearsome glare, as if he were about to charge forward at any moment.
The "Namahage" is a traditional folk figure from the Oga Peninsula in Akita Prefecture, a legendary character known to every household.
Legend has it that the Namahage are messengers of the mountain gods. Every New Year's Eve, they descend upon the villages, going from house to house to drive away laziness and evil, and to bring good luck and a bountiful harvest. They bellow in booming voices, "Are there any crying children? Any disobedient children?", frightening the youngsters into behaving and studying diligently.
Although the Namahage appear frightening, they are actually benevolent beings who come to protect the people. Their image also reflects the hardworking, courageous spirit of the Akita people, who are not afraid of hardship.
The story of the Namahage has been passed down through generations for centuries. Every New Year's Eve, the villagers of the Oga Peninsula hold a "Namahage Festival", where young people dress up as Namahage and visit homes, wishing for peace and good fortune in the coming year.
Next, we took the airport limousine bus to Akita Station. My last visit here was a distant memory, a decade ago. As I stepped into the station, my eyes were immediately drawn to a giant Akita dog plush toy! It sat in the center of the hall, its pink tongue sticking out in a welcoming grin, embodying the symbol of Akita – the loyal and adorable Akita Inu.
Besides being known for Akita dogs, Akita Prefecture is also famous for its rice production, particularly the delicious "Akitakomachi" variety. While waiting for our train, we browsed the "New Days" convenience store inside the station, picking up some souvenirs and four bento boxes to enjoy on the Shinkansen.
Our next destination was Lake Tazawa, and we boarded the Komachi Shinkansen to get there. As the train sped along, the scenery outside transitioned from cityscapes to snow-covered fields, the endless expanse of white a soothing sight. Despite the winter chill outside, the train carriage was warm and cozy, almost lulling me to sleep.
About an hour later, we arrived at Tazawako Station.
Stepping off the train, I was greeted by a rush of crisp, fresh air that instantly invigorated me. Lake Tazawa, known for its deep blue waters and the legend of Tatsuko, is the deepest lake in Japan. I had visited it during my student days. This time, however, our destination was a hidden gem further in the mountains – Nyuto Onsenkyo.
日本第一秘湯～乳頭溫泉鄉
冬季的乳頭溫泉鄉，四周都是被白雪覆蓋的樹木，彷彿披上了銀白色的外衣，而古老的鶴之湯溫泉，就隱身在這片靜謐的雪國之中。這個僻靜的溫泉村坐落在十和田八幡平國家公園的深處，乳頭山的山腳下，早已讓我嚮往許久。它享有溫泉愛好者天堂，以及尋求正宗日本溫泉文化的遊客“一生必去”目的地之美譽，我想絕對是當之無愧的！
乳頭山位於十和田八幡平國立公園內，是秋田縣和岩手縣交界處的一座活火山，標高1,478公尺，以其豐富的自然景觀和溫泉資源而聞名。該地區的火山活動形成了10多種不同類型的溫泉，每種溫泉都有其獨特的特徵和治療功效。乳頭溫泉鄉內的七家傳統旅館均擁有自己的私人溫泉，在日本也十分罕見。
我們抵達東北的這幾天，青森縣降下了打破幾年以來紀錄的豪雪，因此到達乳頭溫泉鄉本身就是一場冒險。我們搭乘台灣虎航直飛秋田機場，然後搭乘新幹線到達田澤湖站。從那裡出發，乘坐約50分鐘的巴士，穿過風景秀麗的白雪皚皚的景觀，我來到了這顆隱藏在深山中的寶石。
鶴之湯溫泉是乳頭溫泉鄉中最古老的溫泉旅館，擁有超過 300 年的歷史，是被「日本秘湯守護協會」認證的會員。它的歷史可以追溯到江戶時代，當時它作為秋田藩主的溫泉度假勝地。旅館的主樓是一座名為「本陣」的茅草屋頂建築，曾經是守護領主的武士的住所，現在可供人們住宿並一窺過去的生活樣貌。
這裡的露天風呂，早已聲名遠播。尤其是在冬季，當雪花輕輕飄落，而我浸泡在乳白色的溫泉中，那樣的幸福感，是筆墨難以形容。身體被溫暖的泉水包圍，眼前是夢幻般的雪景，一切煩惱都彷彿消失殆盡。 在這裡，時間彷彿靜止，我只想靜靜地享受這片刻的寧靜與美好。
最特別的是，這裡的露天風呂是可以男女混浴的。身為男性，當然沒有顧忌，但如果你是女性，會害羞的話，也可以選擇女性專用的露天風呂。不過，既然都來到這裡了，何不嘗試一下這難得的體驗呢？
泡完露天風呂，還可以到室內溫泉「白湯」、以及「鶴之湯」、「滝之湯」、「大白之湯」、「黒湯」等浴池體驗不同的泉質， 每一個都各有特色。
住宿在鶴之湯溫泉，除了泡湯，還能品嚐旅館精心準備的秋田鄉土料理，感受了傳統日式旅館的溫馨氛圍。在寒冷的冬日，吃著熱騰騰的鄉土美食，再配上一杯當地清酒，真是人生一大享受！
這個村莊散發著古老的氣息，讓人回想起早期人們尋求溫泉治病、恢復活力的時代。傳統的茅草屋頂和樹皮覆蓋的日式旅館與周圍的自然環境融為一體，創造出日本古典繪畫中如畫的風景。
乳頭溫泉鄉的每家旅館都有其獨特的特色。黑湯溫泉擁有豐富的溫泉水，自江戶時代以來一直是熱門的旅遊勝地。它的茅草屋頂建築和附近的澡堂喚起了人們對過去時代的懷念。大釜溫泉坐落在一座搬遷的木製校舍內，以其獨特的建築風格而引人注目。蟹場溫泉周圍環繞著山毛櫸森林，以其質樸的露天溫泉而聞名。山麓溫泉的浴室位於客房對面的河畔，環境幽靜寧靜。
為了充分體驗乳頭溫泉鄉的多樣化溫泉，你可以購買了僅供過夜客人使用的「溫泉巡遊券」，並且搭乘「溫泉巡遊號」巴士，它可以方便地接送遊客往返於不同的日式旅館之間，憑藉這張通行證，就可以方便地在溫泉鄉內的七家日式旅館內享受溫泉。
乳頭溫泉鄉不只是一個溫泉勝地；這是一趟時光之旅，一次讓我沉浸在日本鄉村的傳統和自然美景中的機會。當我浸泡在舒緩的溫泉中，周圍是白雪皚皚的景觀和寧靜的山脈時，我感受到了一種我長期尋求的平靜與活力。這顆位於東北中心的隱藏寶石確實名副其實，給我留下了終生難忘的回憶。
Snow fell softly, blanketing the landscape in a pristine layer of white. The air was crisp and tranquil, carrying a faint scent of sulfur from the nearby hot springs. In the beginning of 2025, I journeyed to Japan's Tohoku region, seeking a winter onsen retreat far from the hustle and bustle of city life, and my explorations led us to the legendary Nyuto Onsenkyo.
In winter, Nyuto Onsenkyo is surrounded by trees cloaked in white, as if draped in silvery-white coats. Nestled deep within this serene snowy realm lies the ancient Tsurunoyu Onsen. This secluded hot spring village, tucked away in the depths of Towada-Hachimantai National Park at the foot of Mount Nyuto, had long been on my bucket list. It enjoys a reputation as a haven for onsen enthusiasts and a "must-visit once in a lifetime" destination for travelers seeking an authentic Japanese cultural experience, a reputation I found to be well-deserved.
Located within Towada-Hachimantai National Park, Mount Nyuto is an active volcano on the border of Akita and Iwate Prefectures, standing at an elevation of 1,478 meters. It's renowned for its abundant natural scenery and hot spring resources. The volcanic activity in the area has created over ten different types of hot springs, each with its own unique characteristics and therapeutic properties. The seven traditional inns within Nyuto Onsenkyo each boast their own private hot spring sources, a rarity even in Japan.
During our arrival in Tohoku, Aomori Prefecture experienced record-breaking heavy snowfall, making the journey to Nyuto Onsenkyo an adventure in itself. We took a Tigerair Taiwan flight directly to Akita Airport and then boarded the Shinkansen to Tazawako Station. From there, a scenic 50-minute bus ride through a picturesque, snow-covered landscape brought me to this hidden gem nestled deep in the mountains.
Tsurunoyu Onsen is the oldest hot spring inn in Nyuto Onsenkyo, with a history spanning over 300 years. It's also a certified member of the "Japan Association of Secluded Hot Spring Inns". Its history dates back to the Edo period when it served as a hot spring retreat for the lords of the Akita domain. The main building of the inn, a thatched-roof structure known as "Honjin," once housed the samurai guarding the lord and is now available for guests to stay in, offering a glimpse into the lifestyle of the past.
The open-air baths here are renowned, and rightly so. Especially in winter, as snowflakes gently fell while I soaked in the milky-white hot spring, the sense of bliss was indescribable. Surrounded by the warm water and the magical snowy scenery, all my worries seemed to melt away. Time seemed to stand still, and I just wanted to savor this moment of peace and beauty.
What's most unique is that the open-air baths here are mixed-gender (konyoku). As a man, I had no reservations, but if you're a woman and feel shy, there are also women-only open-air baths available. However, since you've come all this way, why not try this rare experience?
After soaking in the open-air bath, you can also experience different spring qualities in the indoor baths, such as "Shiroyu," "Tsurunoyu," "Takinoyu," "Daihaku-no-yu," and "Kuroyu," each with its own distinct characteristics.
Staying at Tsurunoyu Onsen, besides soaking in the hot springs, you can also savor the inn's carefully prepared Akita regional cuisine and experience the warm atmosphere of a traditional Japanese inn. In the cold winter, enjoying a piping hot local meal paired with local sake is truly one of life's greatest pleasures!
The village exudes an aura of antiquity, harkening back to earlier times when people sought out onsen for their healing and restorative powers. Traditional thatched-roof and bark-covered Japanese inns blend seamlessly with the surrounding natural environment, creating a picturesque landscape reminiscent of a classical Japanese painting.
Each inn in Nyuto Onsenkyo has its own unique character. Kuroyu Onsen boasts abundant hot spring water and has been a popular destination since the Edo period. Its thatched-roof buildings and nearby bathhouse evoke a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era. Taenoyu Onsen, housed in a relocated wooden school building, is notable for its unique architectural style. Ganiba Onsen, surrounded by a beech forest, is famous for its rustic open-air bath. Magoroku Onsen's baths are located along the riverside across from the guest rooms, offering a tranquil and serene setting.
To fully experience the diverse hot springs of Nyuto Onsenkyo, you can purchase the "Yumeguri-cho" (Hot Spring Hopping Pass), available only to overnight guests. This pass allows you to ride the "Yumeguri-go" shuttle bus, which conveniently transports guests between the different inns, granting access to the hot springs of all seven inns in the onsen village.
Nyuto Onsenkyo is more than just a hot spring resort; it's a journey through time, an opportunity to immerse oneself in the tradition and natural beauty of rural Japan. As I soaked in the soothing waters, surrounded by the snow-covered landscape and the serene mountains, I felt a sense of peace and rejuvenation that I had long sought. This hidden gem in the heart of Tohoku truly lived up to its reputation, leaving me with memories that will last a lifetime.
翌日
清晨的陽光透過紙窗，輕輕喚醒了我。揉了揉惺忪的睡眼，我起身走到窗邊，拉開窗簾。窗外是一片銀裝素裹的世界，晶瑩剔透的雪花在空中飛舞，落在屋簷上、樹枝上，整個溫泉旅館都被這一片雪白所包圍，白雪皚皚的山巒在陽光下閃耀著光芒，構成一幅寧靜而美麗的冬日景色。我伸了個懶腰，起身整理好行李，準備告別這舒適的溫泉旅館。
我深深吸了一口清冽的空氣，頓時感到神清氣爽。想到今天就要離開這個寧靜的溫泉小鎮，心中滿是不捨。但同時，我也對即將前往的仙台充滿了期待。
穿好衣服後，我迫不及待地再次前往溫泉。推開通往內湯的木門，熱氣撲面而來。我走到池邊，緩緩地將身體浸入溫熱的泉水中，舒服地嘆了口氣。
泡完內湯，我來到露天風呂，浴池裡，隱約可以看到其他房客的身影。這裡的露天風呂依山而建，可以一邊泡湯，一邊欣賞周圍的雪景。雪花輕輕地飄落在我的臉上、身上，帶來一絲絲涼意，與溫泉的熱度交織在一起，形成一種奇妙的感受。在露天風呂裡，我盡情地享受著這份寧靜與美好。直到肚子開始咕咕叫，我才依依不捨地起身，回到房間換衣服。
早餐時間，我們來到餐廳，享用旅館精心準備的日式早餐。烤魚、玉子燒、醃漬小菜、味噌湯等，每一道菜都精緻美味，讓人食指大動。我一邊品嚐著美食，一邊欣賞著窗外的雪景，心中充滿了幸福和滿足。
九點半左右，我們來到旅館大廳，搭乘預約好的接駁車前往アルパ駒草巴士站。一路上，車窗外是連綿起伏的雪山和冰封的湖泊，景色美不勝收。大約十分鍾後，巴士抵達了アルパ駒草巴士站，我看了看時刻表，下一班下山前往田澤湖車站的巴士是10點09分，還有充足的時間可以在休息站內逛逛。
アルパ駒草巴士站是一個小小的休息站，裡面有關於乳頭山的導覽和解說。我到販賣機買了一杯熱咖啡，到外頭欣賞眼前被白雪覆蓋的大地，很久沒到看這樣的雪景了，美得令人感動。
轉眼間就到了10點09分，我們搭上前往田澤湖車站的巴士。巴士在蜿蜒的山路上行駛，沿途可以欣賞到不同的風景，讓人目不暇接。大約30分鐘的車程後，巴士抵達田澤湖車站。
我們搭乘11:08的東北新幹線前往仙台車站。仙台是東北地區最大的城市，充滿了活力和現代感，與我們昨天造訪的深山中的寧靜溫泉小鎮形成了鮮明的對比。我對即將展開的仙台美食之旅充滿了期待。
The morning sunlight filtering through the paper windows gently woke me up. I rubbed my sleepy eyes and walked to the window, pulling back the curtains. Wow! Outside was a world covered in silver, with crystal-clear snowflakes dancing in the air, landing on the eaves and branches. The entire onsen ryokan was enveloped in this white blanket, a breathtakingly beautiful sight.
I took a deep breath of the crisp air, feeling refreshed and invigorated. The thought of leaving this tranquil onsen town today filled me with a sense of reluctance. But at the same time, I was excited about my upcoming trip to Sendai.
After getting dressed, I couldn't wait to head back to the onsen. Pushing open the wooden door to the indoor bath, I was greeted by a wave of warm steam. I could vaguely make out the silhouettes of other guests through the swirling mist. I walked to the edge of the bath and slowly immersed myself in the hot spring water, sighing contentedly.
After the indoor bath, I ventured out to the rotenburo (outdoor bath). Built on the mountainside, it offered stunning views of the surrounding snowy landscape while you soaked. Snowflakes gently landed on my face and body, creating a delightful contrast with the warmth of the onsen.
I fully immersed myself in the tranquility and beauty of the rotenburo, reluctant to leave until my stomach began to rumble. Finally, I got out and headed back to my room to change.
At breakfast time, I made my way to the dining room to enjoy the ryokan's carefully prepared Japanese breakfast. Grilled fish, tamagoyaki (rolled omelet), pickled vegetables, miso soup... each dish was exquisitely presented and delicious, making my mouth water. I savored the meal while admiring the snowy scenery outside the window, feeling content and happy.
Around 9:30 am, I made my way to the lobby and boarded the pre-arranged shuttle bus to the Alpa Komakusa bus stop. The scenery outside was captivating – a continuous stretch of snow-capped mountains and frozen lakes. About ten minutes later, we arrived at the bus stop. I checked the timetable and saw that the next bus down to Tazawako Station was at 10:09, leaving me ample time to leisurely explore the rest stop.
Alpa Komakusa was a small rest stop with a shop featuring exhibits and information about Mount Nyuto. I bought a cup of hot coffee from a vending machine and stepped outside to admire the snow-covered landscape. It had been a while since I'd seen such a beautiful snowy scene, and I was deeply moved.
Time flew by, and soon it was 10:09. We boarded the bus heading down to Tazawako Station. The bus journey was a scenic delight, with the winding mountain roads offering ever-changing vistas. About 30 minutes later, we arrived at the station.
We boarded the 11:08 Tohoku Shinkansen bound for Sendai Station. Sendai, the largest city in the Tohoku region, is a vibrant and modern metropolis, a stark contrast to the quiet onsen town nestled deep in the mountains that we visited yesterday. I was filled with anticipation for the culinary adventure that awaited me in Sendai.
