清晨的陽光穿過窗櫺，灑落在榻榻米上，為房間增添了一抹溫暖的光輝。窗外，白雪皚皚的山脈在晴朗的天空下閃閃發光，預示著美好的一天。我起身走到窗邊，深深吸了一口清新的冬日空氣，心中充滿了對即將到來的一天以及仙峽閣旅館美味早餐的期待。
旅館的餐廳瀰漫著舒適的氛圍。我坐在窗邊的座位上，渴望一邊欣賞迷人的雪景，一邊享用我的早餐。一個擺盤精美的早餐托盤送到了面前，上面擺滿了各種誘人的菜餚。
我的目光首先被一碗晶瑩剔透的白米飯吸引，它的香氣瀰漫在空氣中。旁邊是一份色彩繽紛的沙拉，新鮮的蔬菜搭配玉米粒，令人食慾大增。烤鮭魚散發著陣陣香味，魚皮烤得酥脆可口。溫泉蛋浸泡在清淡的高湯中，看起來既美味又暖胃。
其他幾道小菜也讓這份早餐更加豐富：燉菠菜、裙帶菜炒蒟蒻、山藥泥佐醬油，以及醃梅子和醃黃瓜。最後，一小杯香甜的芒果優格為這頓早餐畫上了完美的句點。
這份早餐不僅美味，而且營養均衡，為我在這個冬季仙境中探索一天提供了滿滿的能量。我細細品味著每一道菜餚，感受著旅館的用心和款待，心中充滿了感激之情，感謝這美好的一天有如此美好的開始。
飯後早晨，我踏出旅館的暖簾，迎接我的是一片銀白色的世界。蘆之牧溫泉街靜靜地沉睡在會津深山的懷抱中，厚厚的積雪覆蓋著屋頂、街道和樹木，彷彿時間也凍結在這一刻。
呼出的氣息在冰冷的空氣中凝結成白霧，我沿著溫泉街漫步，腳步聲在寂靜的早晨顯得格外清晰。偶爾，可以聽見屋簷上融雪滴落的聲音，或是遠處傳來的幾聲鳥鳴，更增添了這份寧靜的氛圍。
阿賀川靜靜地流淌在山谷間，河面上覆蓋著薄薄的冰層，在陽光的照射下閃閃發光。河岸邊的樹木披上了雪白的冬衣，枝椏交錯，形成一道道優美的弧線。溫泉旅館的屋頂冒著裊裊炊煙，為這寒冷的冬日增添了一絲溫暖。
漫步在空無一人的溫泉街上，我彷彿置身於一個與世隔絕的世外桃源。這份寂靜，這份純淨，洗滌了我的心靈，讓我感受到久違的平靜與祥和。
凛冬將群山染成了素雅的銀白，積雪在山坡上鋪陳開來，厚薄錯落，像是誰不經意間揮灑的筆墨，濃淡相宜。裸露的枝枒，在寒風中輕輕搖曳，仿佛在低聲訴說著冬日的故事。遠處的山巒，在霧氣的籠罩下，若隱若現，宛如仙境一般，讓人心生嚮往。
蘆之牧溫泉的冬日，沒有喧囂，沒有繁華，只有那份獨特的靜謐與安詳，像一首悠揚的樂曲，在山谷間輕輕回蕩，令人陶醉其中，忘卻了塵世的煩惱。
這山，這雪，這寧靜的溫泉小鎮，這氤氳的霧氣，交織成一幅絕美的冬日畫卷，深深地烙印在我的記憶裡，成為旅途中難忘的一抹色彩。
The morning sunlight streamed through the window, casting a warm glow on the tatami mat floor. Outside, the snow-covered mountains sparkled under the clear sky, promising a beautiful day. I rose and went to the window, taking a deep breath of the crisp winter air, filled with anticipation for the day ahead and the delicious breakfast that awaited me at Senkyokaku Ryokan.
The ryokan's dining room had a cozy atmosphere. I settled into a seat by the window, eager to enjoy my meal while taking in the stunning snowy landscape. A beautifully presented breakfast tray arrived, laden with a variety of tempting dishes.
My eyes were first drawn to a bowl of glistening white rice, its aroma filling the air. Next to it was a colorful salad with fresh greens and corn, a delightful way to awaken the appetite. A piece of grilled salmon beckoned, its skin perfectly crisped and seasoned. A soft-boiled onsen egg, served in a light broth, promised to be both comforting and flavorful.
Several other small dishes completed the ensemble: simmered spinach, hijiki seaweed with konnyaku, grated yam with a touch of soy sauce, and pickled plums and cucumbers. A small glass of sweet mango yogurt provided a perfect ending to the meal.
This breakfast was not only delicious but also nutritious, providing me with plenty of energy for a day of exploring in the winter wonderland. I savored each dish, appreciating the care and hospitality of the ryokan, and feeling a deep sense of gratitude for this wonderful start to the day.
Stepping out from behind the warm curtain of the ryokan, I was greeted by a world painted in silver. Ashinomaki Onsen town lay nestled in the Aizu mountains, blanketed in a thick layer of snow that covered the rooftops, streets, and trees. It was as if time itself had frozen.
My breath rose in frosty puffs in the crisp morning air as I strolled along the onsen street, my footsteps the only sound that dared disturb the profound silence. Occasionally, the drip of melting snow from a roof or the distant chirp of a bird would punctuate the stillness, adding to the sense of serenity.
The Agano River flowed quietly through the valley, its surface skimmed with a thin layer of ice that shimmered in the sunlight. The trees lining the riverbank were adorned in snow, their branches interwoven to form graceful arches. Wisps of smoke curled from the chimneys of the onsen ryokans, adding a touch of warmth to the frigid winter scene.
Wandering through the deserted streets, I felt as though I had stumbled upon a secluded haven, cut off from the rest of the world. The silence, the purity, it all washed over me, bringing a sense of peace and tranquility I had rarely experienced before.
Winter had transformed the mountains into an elegant canvas of white. Snow draped the slopes in varying thicknesses, like ink washes applied with an effortless hand, creating a scene of subtle contrasts. Bare branches swayed gently in the cold breeze, whispering tales of the season. In the distance, mountain peaks peeked through the misty veil, creating an ethereal landscape that beckoned me to explore.
Ashinomaki Onsen in winter was devoid of noise and crowds, offering a unique sense of tranquility and peace. It was like a melodious tune echoing through the valley, captivating my senses and allowing me to forget the worries of the world.
The mountains, the snow, the quiet onsen town, the swirling mist – together they formed a breathtaking winter tableau, etched forever in my memory as an unforgettable highlight of my journey.
客房窗外的雪景色
仙峽閣旅館的豐盛早餐
仙峽閣的建築外觀非常具有年代感，且建物本體已經登錄為日本的有形文化財
街道旁可以看到一個非常醒目的攔沙壩
早晨安靜的蘆之牧溫泉街道
這個好像是以前的觀光案內所的建築物，不過後來好像遷移到別處了
遠處那高聳的白色建築物是大川莊旅館，近幾年聽說很熱門，因為據說動漫「鬼滅之刃」裏頭「無限城」的原型，靈感就是來自於那家旅館裡的場景。
會津的蘆之牧溫泉，是個擁有1200年的歷史的溫泉地
蘆之牧溫泉的足湯
蘆之牧溫泉紀念寫真一枚
阿賀川
仙峽閣旅館，靜靜地佇立在阿賀川旁的山崖上，宛如一幅水墨畫，散發著寧靜祥和的氣息
告別了溫暖的溫泉旅館，我們搭上貸切觀光計程車，前往此行的最後一個目的地——大內宿。
隨著車子在山路蜿蜒前行，沿途的景色也愈發迷人。白雪皚皚的山巒，覆蓋著皚皚白雪的樹林，以及偶爾出現的古老茅草屋，構成了一幅絕美的冬日畫卷。
終於，巴士抵達了大內宿。一下車，我就被眼前的景象深深震撼了。厚厚的積雪覆蓋著整個村莊，將原本古樸的茅草屋染成一片純白，宛如走進了童話世界。
踩著咯吱作響的積雪，我漫步於大內宿的街道上。時空彷彿穿越回到400年前。街道兩旁，古樸的茅草屋頂建築鱗次櫛比，保留著江戶時代的格局，在白雪的映襯下更顯古樸典雅。這裡沒有現代建築的突兀，也沒有車水馬龍的喧囂，只有寧靜的氛圍和濃濃的懷舊氣息。
漫步在街道上，我彷彿能看見昔日旅人在此歇腳、商販沿街叫賣的景象。這裡曾是連接會津與日光的重要交通要道——會津西街道上的驛站村落，繁華一時。然而，隨著時代變遷，現代交通工具的出現，大內宿也一度面臨衰落的危機。幸好，當地居民意識到這座村落的珍貴價值，積極投入保護和復興工作，才讓大內宿得以保存至今。
大內宿的歷史可以追溯到平安時代末期。據說當時戰敗的高倉皇子曾逃到此地，並在此建立住所，因此得名「大內宿」。到了江戶時代，大內宿成為了會津西街道上重要的驛站，為來往的旅人提供食宿和休憩的場所，也因此繁榮一時。
然而，隨著時代的變遷，現代化的交通工具逐漸取代了舊時的道路，大內宿也一度面臨衰落的危機。但幸運的是，大內宿逃過了戰爭的摧殘，也沒有因為鐵路發展而被現代化改造，得以完整地保留著江戶時代的風貌。
我好奇地走進一間茅草屋頂的民家，體驗當時人們的生活。昏暗的房間裡，炭火在爐灶中燃燒，散發著溫暖的光芒。牆上掛著一些農具和生活用品，彷彿訴說著過去歲月的點點滴滴。
走出民家，我抬頭仰望著這些歷經數百年風霜的茅草屋頂，心中不禁升起敬佩之情。大內宿的居民們共同守護著這份珍貴的歷史遺產，他們制定了「不賣、不租、不拆」的公約，並自發地維護著傳統的建築和景觀，才讓這座古老的村落得以完整地呈現在世人面前。
中午，我們走進一間茅草屋頂的餐廳，品嚐了當地著名的「大蔥蕎麥麵」。用一根長長的蔥代替筷子，夾起蕎麥麵送入口中，口感獨特，滋味鮮美。
除了美食，大內宿還保留了許多傳統的技藝和生活方式。我們也參觀了一些手工藝品店，欣賞了當地居民製作的精美雜貨和伴手禮，感受到了濃濃的人情味。
最後，我踏著階梯而上，前往大內宿的展望台，白雪覆蓋了整個大內宿，從展望台望去，古老的茅草屋頂上覆蓋著厚厚的積雪，宛如一個個雪白的蘑菇，錯落有致地排列在山谷中，與周圍的雪景融為一體，景色十分夢幻。
我想，大內宿之所以能保存至今，除了幸運地逃過戰火和鐵路發展的影響之外，更重要的是當地居民的堅持和努力。他們對傳統文化的珍視，以及對家園的熱愛，讓大內宿成為了日本文化傳承的典範，也讓我有機會體驗到這段穿越時空的旅程。
離開大內宿時，我心中充滿了敬佩和感動。這座古老的村落，不僅是日本三大茅葺聚落之一，更是文化傳承的典範。它見證了歷史的變遷，也展現了人們對傳統的堅持和對未來的期許。
下午，我們告別了這個夢幻般的雪國村落，回到會津若松巴士中心，搭乘高速巴士前往新潟，準備搭機返回台灣。回首這趟旅程，東北的冬日景色、療癒的溫泉、美味的料理，以及充滿人情味的古老村落，都深深地烙印在我的記憶中。
Bidding farewell to the cozy warmth of the onsen ryokan, we boarded our chartered taxi, setting off to our final destination – Ouchi-juku.
As our taxi meandered along the mountain roads, the scenery outside grew increasingly enchanting. Snow-capped peaks, forests draped in white, and the occasional glimpse of an ancient thatched-roof house – all these elements composed a breathtaking winter tableau.
Finally, we arrived at Ouchi-juku. Stepping out of the taxi, I was awestruck by the scene that unfolded before me. A thick blanket of snow enveloped the entire village, transforming the quaint, rustic houses into a pristine white wonderland, as if I had stepped into a fairytale.
The crunch of fresh snow beneath my feet accompanied me as I strolled down the main street of Ouchi-juku, feeling as though I had been transported 400 years back in time. Lined with rows of 400-year-old houses with their distinctive thatched roofs, the village exuded an air of tranquility and timeless beauty, their elegance accentuated by the pristine snow. There were no modern buildings to disrupt the harmony, no noisy traffic; only a serene atmosphere and a profound sense of nostalgia filled the air.
As I wandered along the street, I imagined scenes of weary travelers seeking respite and merchants hawking their wares in days gone by. This village was once a bustling post town on the Aizu Nishi Kaido, a vital route connecting Aizu and Nikko. However, with the passage of time and the advent of modern transportation, Ouchi-juku faced the threat of decline. Fortunately, the residents recognized the precious value of their village and actively engaged in preservation and revitalization efforts, ensuring its survival to this day.
Ouchi-juku's history dates back to the late Heian period. Legend has it that Prince Takakura, defeated in battle, sought refuge in this area and built his residence here, giving the village its name, "Ouchi-juku," meaning "residence of the prince." During the Edo period, Ouchi-juku flourished as a vital post town on the Aizu Nishi Kaido, providing lodging and respite for travelers journeying between Aizu and Nikko.
However, with the passage of time and the advent of modern transportation, Ouchi-juku faced the threat of decline. Fortunately, it escaped the ravages of war and the modernization brought by railway development, allowing it to retain its Edo-era charm.
Curious, I stepped into one of the thatched-roof houses to experience life as it was centuries ago. Inside the dimly lit room, a charcoal fire burned in the hearth, casting a warm glow. Farm tools and household items adorned the walls, whispering tales of bygone days.
Emerging from the house, I gazed up at the weathered thatched roofs, my heart filled with admiration. The residents of Ouchi-juku have collectively protected this precious heritage. They established a pact of "no selling, no renting, no demolishing" and voluntarily maintained the traditional architecture and landscape, preserving this ancient village for all to see.
At noon, we ducked into a cozy restaurant with a thatched roof and savored a steaming bowl of the local delicacy, "Negi Soba" (buckwheat noodles with a leek). The unique experience of using a long green onion as chopsticks to savor the noodles was both novel and delicious.
Beyond its cuisine, Ouchi-juku cherishes its traditional crafts and way of life. We visited some craft shops, admiring the intricate handiwork of local residents and appreciating the warm hospitality.
Finally, I ascended the steps leading to the observation deck overlooking Ouchi-juku. The panoramic view was breathtaking – the ancient thatched roofs, laden with a thick layer of snow, resembled a cluster of white mushrooms nestled harmoniously in the valley. The scene was truly mesmerizing, a perfect blend of history and winter's pristine beauty.
I believe that Ouchi-juku's survival is not only due to its fortunate escape from war and railway development but also, more importantly, because of the residents' unwavering dedication. Their deep appreciation for their cultural heritage and love for their homeland have made Ouchi-juku a shining example of cultural preservation in Japan, allowing me to experience this remarkable journey through time.
Leaving Ouchi-juku, I was filled with admiration and gratitude. This ancient village is not only one of Japan's three major thatched settlements but also a shining example of cultural preservation. It stands as a testament to the passage of time and the enduring human spirit that strives to protect tradition while embracing the future.
In the afternoon, we bid farewell to this enchanting winter village and returned to the Aizu-Wakamatsu bus center. From there, we boarded a highway bus bound for Niigata, where we would catch our flight back to Taiwan. Reflecting on my journey, the winter landscapes of Tohoku, the soothing onsen, the delicious cuisine, and the unique historical charm of Ouchi-juku will forever hold a special place in my heart.
雪國的景色
我們在大內宿買了不少紀念品小物
碰巧看見正在屋頂上除雪的村民
大蔥蕎麥麵是大內宿的名物，來這邊一定要品嚐看看！
大蔥蕎麥麵，雖然算不上美食，但是在冷冷的天裡，能吃碗熱的東西，也算小確幸了！
這裡是大內宿的展望台，爬上這裡可以欣賞茅草屋聚落的全景
雪季的大內宿景色相當夢幻，像是被蓋上了一層糖霜
大內宿紀念寫真一枚
這是會津若松車站對面的巴士總站
下午我們從會津若松巴士總站，乘坐高速巴士前往新潟，車程約一個多小時
新潟市，這個名字或許不似東京、京都那般如雷貫耳，卻像一壺清酒，初嚐清冽，後韻悠長，值得細細品味。當我踏上這片土地，便被它獨特的氣質所吸引。
首先，新潟是個被水擁抱的城市。信濃川與阿賀野川，日本最長的兩條河流，在這裡交匯入海，孕育了富饒的沖積平原，也塑造了新潟「水都」的靈魂。
漫步在萬代橋上，這座橫跨信濃川的六連拱橋，不僅是新潟市的標誌性建築，更像一位飽經風霜的長者，靜靜地守護著這座城市，見證著它的變遷。
新潟，更是米的故鄉。肥沃的土地和充沛的水源，讓這裡成為了日本首屈一指的稻米產區，尤其以越光米聞名遐邇。在新潟，可以嘗到了最地道的米飯，每一顆都晶瑩飽滿、香甜軟糯，即使只是簡單地配上一點漬物，也能讓人回味無窮。
有了好米，自然少不了好酒。新潟的清酒，也是享譽全國，清冽甘醇，入口順滑，從辛口到甘口，每一種都有其獨特的風味，讓人讚嘆不已。
除了水和米，新潟還有著豐富的歷史文化。古町，這片充滿懷舊風情的街區，保留著許多傳統的日式建築，漫步其中，彷彿穿越回了江戶時代。在這裡，你可以找到許多老字號的料亭、和服店和手工藝品店，感受新潟獨特的文化底蘊。
新潟，就像一塊璞玉，需要你用心去發現它的美。這裡沒有繁華都市的喧囂，卻有著寧靜致遠的閒適；沒有高聳入雲的摩天大樓，卻有著古樸典雅的傳統建築；沒有人山人海的熱門景點，卻有著獨特的自然風光和人文風情。
Niigata City—the name may not resonate as loudly as Tokyo or Kyoto, but like a fine sake, it offers a crisp first taste and a lingering, profound finish that beckons you to savor it slowly. As I set foot on this land, I was immediately captivated by its unique character.
First and foremost, Niigata is a city embraced by water. The Shinano and Agano Rivers, two of Japan's longest, converge here before flowing into the sea, nurturing a fertile alluvial plain and shaping the soul of Niigata as a "water city".
Strolling along the Bandai Bridge, a six-arched bridge that spans the Shinano River, I felt a sense of history. It's not just a landmark of Niigata City but also stands as a weathered elder, silently guarding the city and witnessing its transformations over time.
Niigata is also the home of rice. Fertile land and abundant water resources have made this area one of Japan's premier rice-producing regions, particularly famous for its Koshihikari rice. In Niigata, one can savor truly authentic rice; each grain is plump, glistening, sweet, and soft. Even a simple pairing with some pickled vegetables elevates the experience to something unforgettable.
Naturally, good rice leads to good sake. Niigata's sake is renowned throughout the country for its clear, crisp, and smooth taste. From dry to sweet, each variety has its own unique flavor profile, a testament to the quality that leaves one in awe.
Beyond water and rice, Niigata boasts a rich history and culture. Furumachi, a district brimming with nostalgic charm, retains many traditional Japanese buildings. Walking through its streets feels like stepping back into the Edo period. Here, you can find many long-established restaurants, kimono shops, and handicraft stores, allowing you to immerse yourself in Niigata's unique cultural heritage.
Niigata is like an unpolished gem, requiring a discerning eye to discover its beauty. It lacks the hustle and bustle of a metropolis but offers a tranquil and profound serenity. It may not have towering skyscrapers but features traditional architecture with rustic elegance. It may not be packed with throngs of tourists at famous spots, but it possesses unique natural scenery and a rich cultural atmosphere.
這是我第二次前來新潟，不過很可惜，兩次都只是匆匆路過，下次有機會再安排一趟旅程，好好感受一下新潟這個地方！聽說新潟縣靠近日本海那一側正下著暴雪，幸運的是市區幾乎沒有雪。
傍晚我們從新潟車站前的18號站牌，搭乘路線巴士前往新潟機場
造型可愛的觀光巴士
抵達新潟機場
