隔天早上6點半起床，準備7點去使用昨天事先預約好的貸切露天風呂，這是「御宿萬葉亭」的名物，每一組住宿客人可以免費使用40分鐘。庭園裡的半露天的風呂，有兩個浴缸，一次只能容納最多三個人同時使用，左邊圓形的浴缸水溫很高、右邊橢圓形的浴缸水溫較低。雖然旅館裡面也有露天浴池，但是早晨享受一下這個庭園裡的露天風呂，也是一種特別的享受。
細密的雪花輕輕飄落，落在庭園的樹木和灌木叢上，覆蓋上一層柔軟的白色。原本翠綠的植物，此刻都披上了銀裝，枝條低垂，彷彿在向雪國的冬天致敬。
遠處的樹林，也都被白雪覆蓋，形成一片靜謐的雪白世界。偶爾，一陣微風吹過，樹枝輕輕搖晃，雪花便如柳絮般飄落，在空中舞動。我泡在熱氣氤氳的溫泉浴池中，早晨的寒意逐漸消散，而欣賞著這如詩如畫的雪景，身心都得到了徹底的放鬆。
聽聞中之澤溫泉的溫泉源自百年前的一場驚天動地的災難，根據我在旅館裡看到的白板資料，那場災難就發生在西元1888年，也就是明治21年的7月15日。某天的夏日清晨，本應是寧靜祥和的，卻被一連串不祥的預兆打破。從幾天前開始，大地就隱隱作祟，到了7點左右，地鳴聲愈發劇烈。早上7點45分，一陣劇烈的搖晃襲來，還沒等眾人回過神，便聽到一聲震耳欲聾的轟鳴，只見磐梯山的方向升起了一根巨大的柱狀物！
這根由岩石、土壤和水蒸氣組成的巨柱，扶搖直上，直衝雲霄，那景象，簡直就像是電影裡的末日場景！據說當時的景象如同「日食」發生一般，天地瞬間陷入一片黑暗。緊接著，夾雜著火山灰和被岩漿加熱的水蒸氣的「熱雨」傾盆而下，這場「熱雨」引發了大規模的土石流，不僅摧毀了沿途的村莊，更將河流截斷，形成了三個新的堰塞湖。而這三個湖泊，就是如今大名鼎鼎的檜原湖、小野川湖和秋元湖。
白板上那張手繪的「會津磐梯山爆發」示意圖，生動地還原了當年的場景。磐梯山被炸掉了一大塊，山腳下的村莊被夷為平地，原本流淌的河流被截斷，形成了三個巨大的湖泊。這幅景象，讓人不禁感嘆大自然的威力，也對當年受災的民眾感到深深的同情。
然而，這場災難卻也孕育出了新的生命——溫泉。白板上寫著：「中之澤溫泉，從江戶時代開始就是湯治場」。據說，這裡的源泉來自安達太良山的火山口，直線距離約7公里。沼之平地區在過去還是人們採集硫磺的地方，這裡出產的硫磺純度高達99%，品質極佳。
這裡的溫泉，屬於酸性泉，自古以來就以其強大的療效而聞名。泉水源自地下水與天水、加上活躍的火山活動交互影響的結果，使得這裡的溫泉富含礦物質，浸泡其中，旅途的疲憊都煙消雲散了。
白板上還介紹了中之澤地區的特產「木芥子」木偶，稱為「たこ坊主」，據說是由製作木碗、木盆等生活用具的「木地師」在溫泉地所創造出來的，很長一段時間被當成是湯治客人的伴手禮。明治21年(1888年)磐梯山噴發，誕生了中之澤溫泉的「たこ坊主」，後來更被指定為豬苗代町第一個「縣傳統工藝品」，更進一步被認定為代表性傳統木偶的生產地，「中之澤木偶」的地位終於確立，實現了30年來的夙願！白板上繪製的「たこ坊主」，眼睛周圍塗著紅色，大大的眼睛，豐滿的嘴唇，十分可愛。這「たこ坊主」也成為我這次旅行的重要紀念品之一。
如今的裏磐梯，已經成為了著名的觀光勝地，而那段歷史，則被鐫刻在了這片土地的記憶之中，也流淌在了這溫暖的溫泉裡。
享受完溫泉後，我們來到旅館的餐廳享用早餐。空氣中瀰漫著淡淡的木香，以及食物的香氣，讓人感到溫暖而舒適。桌上擺放著精緻的餐具，每一個細節都透露出日式旅館的細膩和用心。
早餐是傳統的日式料理，擺盤精緻，色彩豐富，令人食指大動。有烤魚、玉子燒、豆腐鍋、米飯、醃漬小菜、味噌湯等，我細細品嚐著每一道菜餚，感受著食材的美味，以及料理者的用心。
退房後，我們搭乘旅館的送迎巴士，下山回到豬苗代車站，準備繼續我們的旅程。
這次的旅程，不僅讓我欣賞到了裏磐梯的美景，更讓我了解到了這片土地背後的故事。這是一次充滿了歷史厚重感和人文關懷的旅程，也讓我對大自然的力量有了更深的敬畏之心。而那晚在「中之澤溫泉」的泡湯體驗，更是為這趟旅程畫上了一個完美的句號。
我帶著滿滿的回憶和一大一小的兩個「たこ坊主」木偶離開了裏磐梯，我相信，這片土地的故事，將會永遠留在我的心中。
I woke up at 6:30 the next morning, eager to experience the "Oyado Manyotei" signature: the private rotenburo (outdoor bath) that we had reserved for 7 am. Each guest staying at the inn gets a complimentary 40-minute session in this delightful bath. Nestled within the garden, this semi-outdoor bath features two tubs, accommodating a maximum of three people at a time. The left, circular tub was piping hot, while the right, oval-shaped one was slightly cooler. While the ryokan also had communal rotenburo, there was something special about enjoying this private one in the tranquil morning atmosphere.
Fine snowflakes gently descend, blanketing the trees and shrubs in the garden with a soft, white layer. The once vibrant green foliage is now adorned in silver, their branches bowing as if paying homage to the winter wonderland.
In the distance, the forest is also enveloped in white, creating a serene and tranquil world. Occasionally, a gentle breeze stirs the branches, sending snowflakes swirling down like willow blossoms dancing in the air.
As I soak in the steaming hot spring, the morning chill gradually dissipates. Enjoying this picturesque snowy vista, I feel a sense of complete relaxation and rejuvenation.
Later, I learned that the origins of Nakanosawa Onsen were linked to a devastating event that occurred over a century ago. According to information displayed on a whiteboard in the ryokan, this disaster struck on July 15th, 1888, during the 21st year of the Meiji era.
A seemingly ordinary summer morning was shattered by a series of ominous signs. The earth had been rumbling for days, and around 7 am, the tremors intensified. At 7:45 am, a violent shaking jolted everyone awake. Before they could comprehend what was happening, a deafening roar echoed through the air, and a massive column erupted from Mount Bandai!
This colossal plume of rock, soil, and steam soared skyward, painting a scene reminiscent of a doomsday movie. It's said that the sky darkened as if a solar eclipse had occurred. Torrents of "hot rain," a mixture of volcanic ash and superheated steam, poured down, triggering massive landslides. These landslides not only devastated villages in their path but also dammed rivers, creating three new lakes: Hibara Lake, Onogawa Lake, and Akimoto Lake.
A hand-drawn illustration on the whiteboard vividly depicted the "Eruption of Mount Bandai in Aizu." A significant portion of the mountain had been blown away, villages at its foot were flattened, and the once flowing rivers were transformed into three large lakes. This image evoked a sense of awe at the power of nature and deep sympathy for those affected by the disaster.
However, this catastrophe also gave birth to new life – the hot springs. The whiteboard explained, "Nakanosawa Onsen has been a hot spring resort since the Edo period." The source of the onsen, it proclaimed, was the crater of Mount Adatara, about 7 kilometers away. The Numa-no-Taira area was once a site for sulfur mining, producing high-quality sulfur with a purity of 99%.
The acidic hot spring water here has been renowned for its therapeutic properties since ancient times. Born from the interplay of groundwater, rainwater, and volcanic activity, the onsen is rich in minerals, and soaking in it effectively eased away the fatigue of my travels.
The whiteboard also introduced the local specialty of Nakanosawa: "Kokeshi" dolls, known as "Tako Bozu." These wooden dolls, with their distinctive red-painted eyes, large eyes, and plump lips, were said to have been created by "kijiya" – artisans who crafted wooden bowls, basins, and other daily necessities – in the onsen area. For a long time, they were given as souvenirs to those visiting the hot springs for healing.
After the eruption of Mount Bandai in 1888, the "Tako Bozu" of Nakanosawa Onsen were born. Later, they were designated as the first "Traditional Craft of Fukushima Prefecture" from Inawashiro Town, further solidifying the area's reputation as a producer of traditional wooden dolls. The "Nakanosawa Kokeshi" finally gained recognition, fulfilling a 30-year long aspiration! The "Tako Bozu" depicted on the whiteboard was undeniably cute, and I couldn't resist buying a pair, one large and one small, as souvenirs of my trip.
Today, Urabandai has become a famous tourist destination, but the memory of that historical eruption is etched into the land and flows through the warm waters of its onsen.
After enjoying the onsen, we made our way to the ryokan's dining room. The air was filled with the subtle scent of wood and the enticing aroma of breakfast, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. The table was set with delicate tableware, every detail reflecting the meticulous care and attention to detail characteristic of a Japanese inn.
Breakfast was a traditional Japanese set meal, beautifully presented with a vibrant array of colors and textures that instantly whetted my appetite. There was grilled fish, tamagoyaki (rolled omelet), a tofu hot pot, rice, pickled vegetables, and miso soup. I savored each dish, appreciating the natural flavors of the ingredients and the chef's culinary expertise.
After checking out, we boarded the ryokan's shuttle bus that took us down the mountain back to Inawashiro Station, ready to continue our journey.
This journey not only allowed me to appreciate the beauty of Urabandai but also to understand the stories behind this land. It was a trip filled with a sense of history and human connection, deepening my respect for the power of nature. And that night, soaking in the onsen of Nakanosawa, was the perfect ending to this memorable adventure.
I left Urabandai with a heart full of memories and two "Tako Bozu" kokeshi dolls in hand. I know the stories of this land will forever remain with me.
這是通往貸切露天風呂的小徑
半露天的貸切露天風呂，一組住宿客人可以免費使用40分鐘（需要預約）
圓形的浴池水溫比較高，橢圓形的浴池的水溫則沒那麼高
獨自享受貸切露天風呂（和合之湯）和美麗的雪景
內湯大浴場
雪見露天風呂
中之澤溫泉（沼尻溫泉）的硫磺泉真的是極品！
接下來是早餐時刻，御宿萬葉亭的早餐，同樣也是豐盛、精緻而美味
豆腐相當美味
日本旅館早餐常見的納豆
這紅鮭魚也是相當美味！
這是沙拉
飯後招待的熱咖啡
食事處窗外就是絕美的雪景
飯後我到街上去走了一下，看見御宿萬葉亭旅館外面有一個足湯
御宿萬葉亭的足湯
整個街道都被新雪覆蓋成一片雪白的景色
溪谷中的雪景
這是中之澤溫泉街上的冬日雪景
旅館的櫃檯旁也有販售一些紀念品
紅牛是福島會津地方的吉祥物
大約30分鐘的車程，旅館的送迎巴士載著我們抵達豬苗代車站，首先映入眼簾的是車站的木造建築，它被厚厚的積雪覆蓋著。屋頂上的雪層像是無數層柔軟的白色蛋糕，幾乎要將屋簷整個吞噬。可以看到木造牆面上掛著一個古老的時鐘，似乎在默默訴說著時間的流逝。整個車站，在白雪的映襯下，顯得寧靜而溫暖，有一種樸實的魅力。
我仔細閱讀著車站旁的說明牌，上面清晰地記載著這個地名的由來。據說「豬苗代」這個名字，有著幾種不同的說法。
其中一種說法，帶有濃厚的傳奇色彩。很久很久以前，這片土地並不是現在這樣肥沃，而是荒涼一片。人們想要在這裏開墾，種植水稻，可實在太困難了。但是，這裡的人們並沒有放棄，他們祈求神明的庇佑。神奇的是，據說磐椅明神顯靈了，一群野豬來到了這片荒地，它們的腳印踩出了一塊塊田埂，人們就依照這些印記，開始播種稻苗，耕種勞作，因此人們就稱這片土地為「豬苗代」了。
另一個說法則更為學術一些，說「豬苗代」這個名字，其實是源自於古老的阿伊努語。阿伊努語是日本原住民的語言，充滿了神秘感。雖然具體含義和來源已經難以考證，但可以想像，這個地區也許在很久很久以前就和阿伊努族有著深厚的淵源。
還有一個比較普遍的說法，認為這片土地很久以前是一片荒地，人們在開墾的同時也開始種植水稻，為了讓稻苗成長便將之稱為「苗代」。因為是水田，所以就以豬在泥地中打滾的模樣而命名，這也是另一個說法。
無論哪種說法是真的，都為這個地方增添了幾分神秘和歷史的厚重感。我輕輕閉上眼睛，感受著微風的吹拂，想像著昔日人們在這片土地上耕耘的身影，還有野豬留下的足跡，又或者是阿伊努族人在此生活的痕跡。這片土地，承載了太多的故事。
視線越過眼前的市街，遠處的山巒展現出它的威嚴。山上被白雪覆蓋，山坡上的滑雪道清晰可見，彷彿巨大的白色劃痕。天空灰濛濛的，使得山巒看起來更加神秘。
這個地方不僅僅有著美麗的風景和傳說，更是偉大的醫學家野口英世的故鄉。這讓我更加對這個地方充滿了敬意。
旅行的樂趣就在於此，不僅僅欣賞美景，還能了解當地文化的起源，聆聽不同的故事。豬苗代，不僅僅是一個地名，更是一段充滿歷史和傳奇的旅程。
After a roughly 30-minute ride, the shuttle bus dropped us off at Inawashiro Station. The first thing that caught my eye was the station's wooden building, blanketed in a thick layer of snow. The snow piled on the roof resembled countless layers of soft, white cake, almost engulfing the eaves entirely. An old clock hung on the wooden wall, seemingly whispering tales of time gone by. Bathed in the soft glow of the snow, the whole station exuded a tranquil and inviting aura, with a charm of rustic simplicity.
I perused the information board next to the station, which clearly described the origins of the town's name. It seems there are a few different theories about how "Inawashiro" came to be.
One legend is particularly enchanting. Long, long ago, this land was not the fertile expanse it is today, but a barren wasteland. People wanted to cultivate rice here, but it proved incredibly difficult. Yet, they persevered and prayed for the gods' blessings. Miraculously, the Iwahashi deity is said to have answered their prayers. A herd of wild boars descended upon the barren land, their footprints creating furrows in the earth. Following these markings, people began sowing rice seedlings and cultivating the land. Thus, they named this place "Inawashiro," meaning "boar rice seedlings."
Another theory is more academic, suggesting that "Inawashiro" originated from the ancient Ainu language. The language of Japan's indigenous people, Ainu, is shrouded in mystery. Although the exact meaning and origin are difficult to trace, it's fascinating to imagine that this region might have had a deep connection with the Ainu people long ago.
A more common explanation suggests that this land was once a wasteland. As people cultivated it, they also began to grow rice. To nurture the young rice plants, they called the area "nawashiro" (rice seedling field). Since it was a paddy field, they named it after the image of wild boars wallowing in the mud, hence "Inawashiro."
Regardless of which theory holds true, they all add a layer of mystique and historical significance to this place. I closed my eyes, feeling the gentle breeze and imagining the figures of people toiling in the fields, the footprints left by wild boars, or perhaps the presence of the Ainu people who once lived here. This land carries a wealth of stories within its embrace.
My gaze drifted beyond the town towards the majestic mountains in the distance. Capped with snow, the slopes revealed ski trails like giant white streaks against the muted grey sky, adding a touch of mystery to the landscape.
This place is not only blessed with beautiful scenery and legends but is also the birthplace of the great bacteriologist, Hideyo Noguchi, further deepening my respect for this region.
That's the beauty of travel – it's not just about admiring the scenery but also about understanding the origins of local culture and listening to diverse stories. Inawashiro is more than just a place name; it's a journey through history and legend.
造型古樸的豬苗代車站
豬苗代車站到此一遊紀念照
豬苗代街道上的雪景色
遠處的山坡上可以看見滑雪場設施，以及像螞蟻一樣小的人
車站對面有一間營業中的咖啡店
我們在隆冬時節來到豬苗代湖，被這裡煥然一新的風景所吸引。這座被稱為「天鏡湖」的湖泊，是日本本州的第三大湖，坐落在雄偉的磐梯山的山腳下，即便是在冰凍的季節，也不負其名。它廣闊無垠，平時是一塊倒映著天空和雄偉的磐梯山的畫布，現在變成了一片潔白，點綴著精巧的「冰樹」藝術——由無情的風和海浪形成的冰凍雕塑。
我站在豬苗代湖結冰的湖岸上，凜冽的寒風吹得雪花拍打在我的臉上，湖面白茫茫一片，閃閃發光。 但我的目光卻被吸引向上，望向磐梯山雄偉的山峰，山坡上覆蓋著厚厚的積雪。這不僅僅是一個風景如畫的背景；它是地球原始力量的活生生的見證，這種力量塑造了我面前的這座山和這座湖泊。
磐梯山最初是一座由熔岩層和火山灰層构成的成層火山。約70萬年前，磐梯山開始了最初的火山活動。 2500年前，一次火山活動導致山頂發生山體崩壊，形成了寬1.2公里、深350公尺的沼之平火山口。在 1888 年，磐梯山再次噴發，小磐梯火山發生水蒸氣爆發，引發了大規模的山體崩壊，大量的岩屑傾瀉而下，形成了獨特的「流れ山」地形。這次噴發也造成了嚴重的災害，附近的村莊被摧毀，許多人喪生。磐梯山過去的噴發歷史展現了大自然的破壞力，但如今，它已成為熱門的登山景點。
我意識到豬苗代湖的存在與磐梯山動盪的歷史息息相關。 五萬年前的火山爆發形成了這個湖泊，這是一個巨大的事件。火山碎屑堵塞了山谷，阻擋了河流的流動，形成瞭如今容納湖水的巨大盆地。
我前往豬苗代湖的旅程是一次朝聖之旅，旨在探索湖底的秘密和湖岸上的故事。我了解到，這個湖的存在本身就證明了大自然的原始力量，它源自於數千年來塑造地形的古代火山爆發和構造變化。這片土地上的原住民阿伊努人，曾低聲講述這座湖泊的由來，他們的聲音在千百年來一直迴盪。
豬苗代湖是遷徙天鵝的天堂，它們的存在為原本迷人的冬季景觀增添了一絲魔幻。從遙遠的北方，飄渺的身影降落下來，它們的翅膀毫不費力地帶著它們飛過冰凍的廣闊天地。這些優雅生物的白色羽毛與深藍色的天空形成鮮明對比，讓人想起大自然的力量和美麗之間的微妙平衡。 在天鵝優雅的舞蹈中，我看到了堅韌不拔的象徵，證明了生命即使在逆境中也能蓬勃發展。
當我深入研究這個湖的歷史時，我發現了自然和人類活動之間迷人的相互作用。從豬苗代湖流淌的清澈湖水滋潤了周圍的土地，滋養了稻田並養活了該地區的人民。
豬苗代湖的魅力不僅僅在於它的歷史意義。它的海岸裝飾著無數的自然奇觀。磐梯山有著獨特的外形，吸引健行者前來探索其路線並欣賞全景。五色沼是一片色彩鮮豔的池塘，閃閃發光，就像散佈在景觀中的寶石。冬季，湖面變成仙境，表面佈滿由風浪雕刻而成的精美「冰樹」。
隨後我們在湖泊周圍的森林中徒步探索，那一刻的寧靜感籠罩著我。當我們艱難地走進冬天的懷抱時，靴子下新雪的嘎吱聲在寂靜的森林中迴盪。 厚厚的白色毯子覆蓋著大地，掩蓋了一切聲音，將熟悉的事物變成了神奇的事物。在我上方，盤梯山的雄偉山峰巍然屹立，山坡上覆蓋著一層純淨的積雪，與深藍色的天空形成鮮明對比。
但冬季景觀的原始之美才真正吸引著我。空氣的寂靜、雪花的清脆以及與世隔絕的感覺，營造出一種深沉寧靜的氛圍。 當我走出森林時，豬苗代湖的壯麗景色展現在我眼前。 這些「冰樹」外型精緻，在陽光下閃閃發光，彷彿是這片冰凍土地的守護者。
即使在隆冬時節，湖泊與居住在湖邊的人們之間的聯繫仍然顯而易見。我想像著幾個世紀前的農民，精心引導湖水滋潤他們的稻田，他們的生活與這自然奇觀的節奏交織在一起。 湖水不僅滋養了生命，也改變了歷史的進程，其水源促進了附近城鎮的發展。
當我們在豬苗代湖的旅程即將結束時，我意識到我只是觸及了它神秘的表面。這不僅僅是一個湖；它是自然持久力量的活生生的證明、靈感的源泉以及歷史和傳奇交織的地方。它的美麗、它的故事、它的寧靜將永遠銘刻在我的心裡。
We arrived at Lake Inawashiro in the depths of winter, captivated by the transformed landscape. Known as the "Heavenly Mirror Lake," Japan's third largest lake on the main island of Honshu, nestled at the foot of the majestic Mount Bandai, lived up to its name even in this frozen season. Its vast expanse, normally a canvas reflecting the sky and the imposing Mount Bandai, was now a pristine sheet of white, punctuated by the intricate artistry of "ice trees" – frozen sculptures formed by the relentless wind and waves.
Standing on the frozen shore of Lake Inawashiro, the biting wind whipped snowflakes across my face, the lake a vast, glittering expanse of white. But my gaze was drawn upwards, towards the majestic peak of Mount Bandai, its slopes cloaked in a thick mantle of snow. This wasn't just a picturesque backdrop; it was a living testament to the Earth's raw power, a force that had shaped both the mountain and the lake before me.
Mount Bandai was originally a stratovolcano, formed by layers of lava and volcanic ash. Around 700,000 years ago, Mount Bandai began its initial volcanic activity. Approximately 2,500 years ago, a volcanic event caused a collapse of the summit, forming the Numa-no-Taira caldera, which is 1.2 kilometers wide and 350 meters deep. In 1888, Mount Bandai erupted again. This time, a phreatic eruption (steam explosion) occurred at Mount Ko-Bandai, triggering a large-scale collapse of the mountainside. Massive amounts of rock debris poured down, creating a unique "Nagaresan" landscape (a landscape of volcanic debris flows). This eruption also caused significant damage, destroying nearby villages and claiming many lives. The past eruptions of Mount Bandai demonstrate the destructive power of nature, but today, it has become a popular hiking destination.
My journey to Lake Inawashiro was a pilgrimage of sorts, a quest to uncover the secrets held within its depths and the stories etched upon its shores. I had learned that the lake's very existence was a testament to the raw power of nature, born from ancient volcanic eruptions and tectonic shifts that shaped the landscape over millennia. The Ainu people, the indigenous inhabitants of this land, whispered tales of how the lake came to be, their voices echoing through the ages.
Lake Inawashiro was a haven for migrating swans, their presence adding a touch of magic to the already enchanting winter landscape. From the distant north, graceful forms would descend, their wings carrying them effortlessly across the frozen expanse. The sight of these elegant creatures, their white plumage contrasting against the deep blue sky, was a reminder of the delicate balance between nature's power and its beauty. In the graceful dance of the swans, I saw a symbol of resilience, a testament to life's ability to flourish even in the face of adversity.
As I delved deeper into the lake's history, I discovered a fascinating interplay between nature and human endeavor. The crystal-clear waters that flowed from Lake Inawashiro nurtured the surrounding lands, feeding rice paddies and sustaining communities.
The lake's allure extended beyond its historical significance. Its shores were adorned with a tapestry of natural wonders. Mount Bandai, with its distinctive profile, beckoned hikers to explore its trails and witness panoramic vistas. The Goshikinuma, a cluster of vibrantly colored ponds, shimmered like jewels scattered across the landscape. And in winter, the lake transformed into a wonderland, its surface adorned with intricate "ice trees," sculpted by the wind and waves.
We later explored by hiking through the forests surrounding the lake, the tranquility of the moment washing over me. The crunch of fresh snow beneath our boots echoed through the silent forest as we trudged deeper into the embrace of winter. A thick blanket of white draped the landscape, muffling every sound and transforming the familiar into something magical. Above us, the imposing peak of Mount Bandai stood sentinel, its slopes cloaked in a pristine layer of snow, a stark contrast to the deep blue sky.
But it was the raw beauty of the winter landscape that truly captivated me. The stillness of the air, the crispness of the snow, and the sense of isolation created an atmosphere of profound tranquility. As I emerged from the forest, the full splendor of Lake Inawashiro unfolded before me. The "ice trees," their delicate forms glistening in the sunlight, seemed like ethereal guardians of this frozen realm.
Even in the depths of winter, the lake's connection to the people who lived alongside it was evident. I imagined the farmers of centuries past, carefully channeling the lake's waters to nourish their rice paddies, their lives intertwined with the rhythms of this natural wonder. The lake's bounty had not only sustained life but had also shaped the course of history, its waters fueling the growth of nearby cities and towns.
As our time at Lake Inawashiro drew to a close, I realized that I had only scratched the surface of its mysteries. This wasn't just a lake; it was a living testament to the enduring power of nature, a source of inspiration, and a place where history and legend intertwined. The memories of its beauty, its stories, and its tranquility would forever be etched in my heart.
一群小鴨鴨屁顛屁顛地走了過來
從豬苗代湖眺望壯觀的磐梯山
碰上下暴雪，今天環湖觀光船沒有營業，有點遺憾！
接著我們去天神浜附近的森林裡雪地健行
這裡有一個叫做「磐梯 Snow Dogs」的設施，好像是給狗狗自由奔跑的場地
附近還有一個神社
離開豬苗代湖，我們搭上貸切觀光計程車往會津若松市前進，車子緩緩駛離湖畔，窗外的景色也隨之變化，從開闊的湖景漸漸轉為田園風光。途中我們在豬苗代市區的一家生意很好的家庭餐館吃午餐。我聽說那裡有一家叫做「まるいち食堂」的餐廳， 他們的炸豬排非常有名，許多不同年齡層的饕客都慕名而來。
抵達豬苗代町時，已是飢腸轆轆。包車的司機載我們來到「まるいち食堂」的門口，樸實的店面，散發著一股溫馨的氣息。一走進店裡，就聞到陣陣炸物的香氣，讓我更加期待。我毫不猶豫地點了招牌的炸豬排定食，然後滿心期待地等待著。
沒多久，熱騰騰的炸豬排蓋飯就上桌了。金黃酥脆的炸豬排，淋上濃郁的醬汁，散發著誘人的光芒。我迫不及待地夾起一塊豬排， 咬下去的瞬間，酥脆的外皮和鮮嫩多汁的豬肉，在口中交織出完美的樂章，實在是太美味了！
醬汁的味道也恰到好處，鹹甜適中，恰到好處地襯托出豬排的鮮美。配上鬆軟的白飯，每一口都是幸福的滋味。
不知不覺中，我已經把整碗炸豬排蓋飯吃得精光。這真是我吃過最好吃的炸豬排了！下次有機會再來豬苗代町，我一定會再來「まるいち食堂」，再品嚐一次這令人難忘的美味。
填飽肚子之後，我們搭上車，繼續往下個目的地會津若松市前進！
放眼望去，一片片雪白的田野在陽光下閃閃發光，偶爾可以看到幾間傳統的日式房屋，屋頂上覆蓋著厚厚的積雪，宛如童話故事裡的薑餅屋。道路兩旁的樹木也披上了銀裝，枝椏間偶爾還能看到幾隻不怕冷的小鳥，在嘰嘰喳喳地歌唱。
而最令人驚豔的，莫過於始終伴隨著我的磐梯山。這座被稱為「會津富士」的雄偉的火山，在冬季更顯得壯麗非凡。山頂覆蓋著皚皚白雪，山坡上的樹林也披上了銀裝，在藍天的映襯下，構成一幅絕美的風景畫。
隨著巴士的前行，磐梯山的樣貌也逐漸變化。有時，它像一位慈祥的巨人，靜靜地守護著這片土地；有時，它又像一位神秘的隱士，隱身在雲霧之中，增添了一絲神秘的色彩。
我拿出相機，捕捉著這一路上的美景。每一次按下快門，都像是把這份感動永久地珍藏起來。看著窗外不斷變換的景色，我不禁感叹大自然的鬼斧神工，也更加期待接下來的會津若松之旅。
Leaving the shimmering waters of Lake Inawashiro behind, we boarded a chartered taxi to Aizu-Wakamatsu. As the car gradually pulled away from the lakeshore, the scenery outside transformed from expansive lake views to idyllic countryside landscapes. Along the way, we stopped for lunch at a bustling family restaurant in Inawashiro's town center. I had heard about a place called "Maruichi Shokudo," famous for their katsu (deep-fried pork cutlet). It seemed to be a popular spot, attracting food lovers of all ages.
By the time we reached Inawashiro, we were famished. Our driver pulled up to the entrance of Maruichi Shokudo, a modest establishment with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The aroma of deep-fried goodness wafted through the air as we stepped inside, making my mouth water in anticipation. I wasted no time ordering their signature katsu set meal and eagerly awaited its arrival.
Soon, a steaming bowl of katsu-don (deep-fried pork cutlet rice bowl) was placed before me. The golden-brown, crispy katsu, glistening with a rich sauce, was a sight to behold. I couldn't wait to take a bite. The moment my teeth sank into the cutlet, a symphony of textures and flavors erupted in my mouth – the crispy exterior giving way to the tender, juicy pork. It was absolutely divine!
The sauce was perfectly balanced, with just the right amount of sweetness and saltiness to complement the savory katsu. Paired with the fluffy white rice, each bite was a moment of pure bliss.
Before I knew it, I had devoured the entire bowl. It was hands down the best katsu I had ever tasted! If I ever have the chance to return to Inawashiro, I will definitely revisit Maruichi Shokudo to savor this unforgettable dish again.
With our bellies full and our spirits high, we continued our journey towards Aizu-Wakamatsu. The scenery outside was a feast for the eyes. Snow-covered fields shimmered under the sunlight, dotted with traditional Japanese houses adorned with thick layers of snow on their roofs, resembling gingerbread houses from a fairytale. The trees lining the road were also draped in white, their branches occasionally hosting a few fearless birds chirping merrily.
But the most captivating sight was undoubtedly Mount Bandai, a constant companion throughout our journey. Known as "Aizu Fuji," this majestic volcano appeared even more magnificent in its winter garb. Its summit was crowned with pristine snow, and the forests on its slopes were cloaked in white, creating a stunning contrast against the azure sky.
As we journeyed on, the appearance of Mount Bandai shifted and evolved. At times, it resembled a benevolent giant, silently watching over the land. At other times, it appeared as a mysterious hermit, veiled by clouds and mist, adding an air of intrigue.
I took out my camera, capturing the beauty of the ever-changing scenery. Each click of the shutter felt like preserving a moment of wonder. Gazing out the window at the picturesque landscape, I couldn't help but marvel at the artistry of nature and eagerly anticipate our upcoming exploration of Aizu-Wakamatsu.
豬苗代市區的「まるいち食堂」這家店非常受歡迎，我們今天排了至少20分鐘才吃到！
這家店的炸豬排淋上醬汁真的是極致美味！
拉麵也不錯，最後全部完食！
從豬苗代搭車到會津若松市的途中，不時都能從車窗外看見那壯觀的盤梯山
遠處那壯麗的山脈，應該是有東北阿爾卑斯之稱的飯豐連峰吧！
會津若松城，又名鶴ヶ城，建於1384年，是會津地區歷史悠久的象徵。這座矗立於會津盆地中央的古城，歷經600多年的風霜，見證過無數的戰火和歷史事件，城牆上的每一道痕跡，都訴說著一段段不為人知的歷史故事。
我漫步在城內，雪花紛飛，將會津若松城染成一片銀白，我佇立在城下，思緒飄回16世紀末，蒲生氏鄉擔任會津藩主的那個年代。這位充滿遠見的領主，不僅將城郭擴建至今日的規模，更致力於發展城下町，引入新產業和技術，讓會津若松城一度成為東北地區的政經中心。他重視教育，創辦藩校，為會津的發展奠定了堅實的基礎。
然而，繁榮的景象並未永遠持續。幕府末年，戊辰戰爭的爆發，為會津若松城帶來了巨大的衝擊。當我走到飯盛山腳下，遙想著白虎隊少年武士們悲壯的自盡，心中不禁感到一陣酸楚。戰爭的殘酷，以及武士道精神的悲劇性，都在這段歷史中展露無遺。
明治維新後，會津若松城一度遭到拆除的命運，直到20世紀才得以重建。如今，它巍然屹立，守護著這片土地，也成為福島縣的象徵。
我還在鶴之城的一個角落，邂逅了這抹鮮豔的紅色，兩尊憨態可掬的紅牛雕像在雪地裡格外醒目，這就是會津地區的吉祥物——赤べこ(Akabeko)，紅牛。
我湊近一旁的說明牌，讀著關於它們的傳說。原來，這紅牛的歷史可以追溯到九世紀！那時，柳津町的圓藏寺正在修建，而紅牛的原型，一頭強壯的赤牛，便擔負起了搬運重物的重任，為寺廟的落成做出了巨大的貢獻。這還不止呢，聽說在很久以前，一場瘟疫肆虐，人們苦不堪言。這時候，有人將紅牛的玩具送給了生病的孩子們，沒想到，孩子們竟然奇蹟般地康復了！從此，紅牛便成了消災解厄、保佑健康的象徵，深受當地人的喜愛。
眼前這兩頭紅牛，一大一小，彷彿母子一般依偎在一起。它們通體赤紅，身上點綴著黑色的斑紋和白色的勾邊，圓滾滾的身子，低垂的頭顱，還有那呆萌的表情，看起來既敦厚樸實，又充滿了靈氣。
這紅牛不僅僅是一個吉祥物，更是會津地區歷史和文化的縮影。它們靜靜地佇立在這裡，見證著這片土地的變遷，也守護著這裡的人們。我想，每一個來到會津若松的旅人，都會被這抹鮮豔的紅色所吸引，也會被紅牛背後的故事所感動吧。
會津若松城，不僅僅是一座歷史遺跡，它更像是一本厚重的史書，記載著武士道精神、戰爭的残酷、以及人們的堅韌和智慧。我離開會津若松城時，心中充滿了敬佩和感動，也更加珍惜和平年代的幸福。
Aizuwakamatsu Castle, also known as Tsuruga Castle, was built in 1384 and stands as a timeless symbol of the Aizu region's history. This ancient castle, situated in the heart of the Aizu Basin, has weathered over 600 years of storms, witnessing countless wars and historical events. Every mark on its walls whispers a forgotten story of times gone by.
I wandered through the castle grounds, snowflakes falling softly, painting Aizuwakamatsu Castle in a blanket of pure white. As I stood at the foot of the castle, my thoughts drifted back to the late 16th century, the era of Gamo Ujisato, the lord of the Aizu domain. This visionary leader not only expanded the castle to its present scale but also dedicated himself to developing the castle town, introducing new industries and technologies.
Aizuwakamatsu Castle once flourished as the political and economic center of the Tohoku region under his rule. He also valued education, establishing a domain school that laid a solid foundation for Aizu's development.
However, this prosperity did not last forever. The outbreak of the Boshin War in the late Edo period brought immense upheaval to Aizuwakamatsu Castle. As I walked to the foot of Mount Iimori, I imagined the young samurai of the Byakkotai and their tragic act of self-sacrifice, and a wave of sorrow washed over me. The cruelty of war and the tragic nature of the Bushido spirit are starkly revealed in this historical episode.
After the Meiji Restoration, Aizuwakamatsu Castle faced demolition, only to be rebuilt in the 20th century. Today, it stands tall and proud, watching over this land and serving as a symbol of Fukushima Prefecture.
And then, in a corner of Tsuruga Castle, I encountered a vibrant splash of red: two charming Akabeko statues, the beloved red cattle, standing out conspicuously against the snowy backdrop. This is the mascot of the Aizu region—Akabeko, the red cow.
I drew closer to the adjacent information board, reading about their legend. As it turns out, the history of these red cattle dates back to the 9th century! At that time, Enzoji Temple in Yanaizu town was under construction, and the prototype of Akabeko, a strong red ox, shouldered the heavy burden of transporting materials, contributing greatly to the temple's completion. And that's not all! Legend has it that long ago, a devastating plague swept through the land, causing immense suffering. During this time, someone gave red cow toys to sick children, and miraculously, the children recovered! Since then, Akabeko have become a symbol of warding off evil and ensuring good health, deeply loved by the locals.
These two red cattle before me, one large and one small, seemed to be snuggling together like mother and child. Their bodies were entirely red, adorned with black spots and white outlines. Their round figures, lowered heads, and endearing expressions made them appear both simple and gentle, yet full of spirit.
Akabeko are more than just a mascot; they are a microcosm of the history and culture of the Aizu region. They stand here silently, witnessing the changes of this land and guarding its people. I believe that every traveler who comes to Aizuwakamatsu will be drawn to this striking red color, and will be moved by the story behind these red cattle.
Aizuwakamatsu Castle is not merely a historical relic; it's more like a weighty tome, chronicling the spirit of Bushido, the brutality of war, and the resilience and wisdom of the people. As I left Aizuwakamatsu Castle, my heart was filled with respect and emotion, and I felt a deeper appreciation for the blessings of peace in our time.
兩尊憨態可掬的紅牛雕像在雪地裡格外醒目
會津若松城紀念寫真一枚
狐狸神社
傍晚，我們搭上計程車，離開會津若松市區，一路駛向福島縣會津若松市的山間。目的地是隱藏在深山幽谷中的蘆之牧溫泉，而我們今晚的落腳處，便是那依偎在阿賀川畔的「仙峽閣」旅館。仙峽閣旅館是由明治時期的武德殿改建而成，充滿了懷舊的氛圍。旅館擁有自家源泉，提供高品質的溫泉，
蘆之牧溫泉據說開拓於1200年前，相傳是行基菩薩雲遊四方時發現的。當時由於地處深山，交通不便，因此也被稱為「秘境溫泉」，如今依舊保有那份遺世獨立的寧靜氛圍。
在江戶時代，蘆之牧溫泉是會津藩主的湯治場，藩主會定期前往此地療養。明治時代以後，蘆之牧溫泉逐漸發展成為面向大眾的溫泉地。
蘆之牧溫泉的泉質以單純泉為主，對神經痛、肌肉痠痛、關節痛等具有療效。這裡的溫泉旅館大多建在溪谷的懸崖峭壁上，可以一邊泡湯，一邊欣賞溪流美景及森林綠意。
蘆之牧溫泉原本是在河岸自然湧出的野溪溫泉，由於自然湧出的溫泉與河水混合，因此可以享受在河裡游泳和泡溫泉的豪邁野天風呂！為了利用天然溫泉，村莊在溫泉開發時鑽探了四個源泉。現在村莊集中管理源泉，並將溫泉供應給各家旅館。
仙峽閣是蘆之牧溫泉中唯一擁有自家源泉的旅館，溫泉源源不絕地從浴池的底部湧出。料理方面，當然是以山菜為首，採用當地食材，並佐以珍藏美酒款待貴客。仙峽閣保有珍貴的神社式樣裝飾，整體樣貌幾乎與建造當時相同，並於2019年7月被指定為國家登錄有形文化財。
抵達仙峽閣時，暮色已漸漸籠罩山谷。旅館的建築古樸典雅，散發著濃濃的日式風情。踏入玄關，親切的服務人員立刻迎上前來，引領我們穿過木造迴廊，來到和式客房。
房間是傳統的和式格局，榻榻米散發著藺草的清香，窗外便是潺潺流淌的阿賀川溪谷，以及被綠意環繞的溪谷景色。放下行李後，我們迫不及待地換上浴衣，前往旅館引以為傲的溫泉。
仙峽閣的溫泉是源泉かけ流し，泉質滑順，據說對舒緩關節疼痛和疲勞特別有效。泡在露天風呂中，一邊欣賞著被暮色染紅的溪谷，一邊感受溫暖的泉水輕撫肌膚，身心都得到了徹底的放鬆。
仙峽閣的晚宴是傳統且精緻的日式料理，首先映入眼簾的是 前菜，那小巧精緻的擺盤，像藝術品般。有彈牙的刺身蒟蒻，配上鹹香的鮭魚麹漬，還有鹹甜入味的蜆仔時雨煮，光是前菜就讓人期待萬分。
接著是小鉢，小小一碗，盛裝著的是春天般的滋味。嫩綠的細蔥，搭配上鮮甜的槍烏賊，用酸甜的醋味噌調味，清新爽口，瞬間打開了味蕾。
お造り，也就是生魚片。鮮紅的鮪魚、彈牙的干貝、還有Q彈的軟絲，這三種海洋珍寶，新鮮度無可挑剔，沾上醬油和現磨的山葵，入口即化的美味，實在令人難忘。
燒物的烤魚則是銀鰈魚的味噌粕漬，濃郁的味噌香氣，加上魚肉本身的鮮甜，經過烤箱的洗禮，外皮酥脆，內裡軟嫩，每一口都散發著幸福的滋味。
接下來的佳肴，是今晚的主角之一，福島縣產的牛肉陶板燒！新鮮牛肉在熱燙的陶板上滋滋作響，肉香四溢，再配上特製的醬汁，入口即化，這絕對是令人驚豔的美味！
蒸物是一道精心製作的特製茶碗蒸，看似樸素，實則暗藏玄機，滑嫩的蛋羹，搭配上豐富的配料，每一口都是驚喜，溫潤暖胃。
煮物則是將比目魚用甘甜的醬汁燉煮，魚肉吸收了醬汁的精華，口感軟嫩，甜鹹適中，餘韻無窮。
椀物是一碗溫暖的海老肉丸湯，鮮美的海老肉丸，配上清澈的高湯，香氣撲鼻，一口下肚，暖胃又暖心。
主食用的是會津產的越光米，粒粒晶瑩剔透，口感飽滿，搭配美味佳餚，簡直是絕配。搭配主食的香物，是清爽的柚子白菜，清脆爽口，解膩又開胃。
最後一道甜點，是會津產蘋果的果醬甜點，搭配抹茶蛋糕，酸甜的蘋果果醬，搭配濃郁的抹茶香，為這場美食之旅劃下完美的句點。
晚宴最後，服務員端來了我事先加點的特殊料理，只見白瓷盤中，幾片鮮紅的肉片整齊排列，色澤深邃，旁邊點綴著幾片翠綠的紫蘇葉，還有一小碟褐色的味噌。
我迫不及待地夾起一片，沾了些醬油，蘸了點味噌，送入口中。口感滑嫩且略帶咬勁，鮮甜的肉汁在舌尖迸發，沒有絲毫的腥膻味，反而帶著一股淡淡的甘甜，紫蘇葉的清香和味噌的鹹香，更是將這份鮮美提升到了極致。
據說這馬肉料理的起源，可以追溯到很久以前。聽老一輩的人講，這會津自古以來就是兵家必爭之地。幕府末期的戊辰戰爭，更是讓這片土地飽受戰火摧殘。當時，會津藩的武士們英勇抵抗，但終究寡不敵眾，被圍困在鶴之城中。
糧草告罄，士兵們飢寒交迫，士氣低落。為了維持戰力，也為了填飽肚子，無奈之下，他們開始宰殺戰馬充飢。沒想到，這馬肉的味道竟然出奇的好，而且營養豐富，讓士兵們恢復了體力，繼續奮勇殺敵。
後來，戰爭結束了，但吃馬肉的習慣卻在會津流傳了下來。經過一代代人的改良和創新，才有了如今這美味的馬刺し。
會津的鄉土料理馬刺し，不僅僅滿足了我的味蕾，更讓我領略到了這片土地的歷史與文化。我相信，這段關於馬肉的傳奇，將會繼續在會津流傳下去，成為每一個到訪會津的旅人，心中最難忘的回憶。
在仙峽閣的這一晚，我體驗到傳統的日式旅館風情，品嚐了季節性的的美味佳餚，更重要的是，在療癒身心的溫泉中，洗淨了旅途的疲憊，讓心靈回歸平靜。
Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle, also known as Tsuruga Castle, built in 1384, stands as a time-honored symbol of the Aizu region. Positioned in the heart of the Aizu Basin, this ancient fortress has braved over 600 years of hardship, bearing witness to countless battles and historical events. Each scar etched upon its walls whispers a tale of its storied past.
As I wander through the castle grounds, snowflakes dance and twirl, blanketing Aizu-Wakamatsu in a pristine white. Standing before its majestic walls, my mind journeys back to the late 16th century, the era of Gamo Ujisato, the lord of Aizu. This visionary leader not only expanded the castle to its current grandeur but also focused on developing the surrounding castle town. He introduced new industries and technologies, establishing Aizu-Wakamatsu as a political and economic center in the Tohoku region. He valued education and founded a domain school, laying a solid foundation for Aizu's future.
However, this prosperity did not endure. The eruption of the Boshin War in the late Edo period brought a devastating impact upon Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle. Reaching the foot of Mount Iimori, my heart aches as I imagine the tragic suicide of the young Byakkotai samurai. The cruelty of war and the tragic nature of Bushido are poignantly revealed in this chapter of history.
After the Meiji Restoration, Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle faced demolition but was thankfully reconstructed in the 20th century. Today, it stands tall, a symbol of Fukushima Prefecture and a guardian of this land.
Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle is more than just a historical site; it's a profound chronicle etched in stone, narrating tales of Bushido spirit, the cruelty of war, and the resilience and wisdom of the people. As I depart Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle, my heart swells with admiration and gratitude, cherishing the peace we enjoy today.
In the evening, we take a taxi, leaving the city of Aizu-Wakamatsu behind, and journey deep into the mountains. Our destination is the secluded Ashinomaki Onsen, nestled in a hidden valley, where we'll spend the night at "Senkyokaku," a traditional inn perched on the banks of the Aga River.
Senkyokaku Ryokan, converted from a Budo-kan (martial arts training hall) of the Meiji era, exudes a nostalgic atmosphere. With its own private hot spring source, the inn offers high-quality onsen water.
Ashinomaki Onsen is said to have been discovered 1200 years ago by the wandering monk Gyoki. Once known as a "hidden hot spring" due to its remote location, it still retains a sense of tranquility and seclusion.
During the Edo period, Ashinomaki Onsen served as a therapeutic retreat for the feudal lords of Aizu, who regularly visited for healing and recuperation. After the Meiji era, it gradually opened up to the public.
The hot spring water of Ashinomaki Onsen is mainly a simple alkaline type, known for its effectiveness in relieving nerve pain, muscle soreness, and joint pain. Most of the onsen ryokans here are built on the cliffs of the valley, offering breathtaking views of the flowing river and lush greenery while you soak.
Ashinomaki Onsen was originally a "wild stream" hot spring, where the water naturally gushed forth from the riverbank as stones and sand were excavated. Because the naturally occurring hot spring water mixed with the river, people could enjoy the invigorating experience of swimming and bathing in the open-air bath formed by the river itself! To harness the natural hot spring, the village drilled four source wells when developing the onsen. Now, the village collectively manages these sources and supplies the hot spring water to each of the ryokans.
Senkyokaku is the only ryokan in Ashinomaki Onsen that possesses its own private hot spring source. The onsen water gushes continuously from the bottom of the baths. As for cuisine, they naturally feature local ingredients, with wild mountain vegetables taking center stage, complemented by a selection of fine sake to treat their guests.
Senkyokaku preserves precious shrine-style architectural features, with its overall appearance remaining almost identical to when it was first built. In July 2019, it was designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan. The ryokan provides a shuttle service to and from Ashinomaki Onsen Station on the Aizu Railway.
As we arrive at Senkyokaku, twilight descends upon the valley. The inn's architecture is a picture of classic Japanese elegance. Stepping through the genkan (entrance), we are greeted by the warm hospitality of the staff who guide us along the wooden corridors to our Japanese-style room.
The room has a traditional layout with tatami mats exuding the fragrance of igusa (rush grass). The window frames a picturesque view of the Aga River flowing gently through the verdant valley. After settling in, we eagerly change into yukatas and head towards the inn's pride and joy: the onsen.
Senkyokaku's hot spring is "gensen kake nagashi" (free-flowing from the source), with smooth, silky water said to be particularly effective in soothing joint pain and fatigue. Soaking in the rotenburo (outdoor bath), we watch the twilight paint the valley in hues of red and orange while the warm water embraces our skin, melting away all tension and stress.
The evening meal at Senkyokaku was a traditional and exquisite Japanese affair. First to arrive was the "zensai" (appetizer), a small and beautifully arranged plate that resembled a work of art. It featured chewy konjac sashimi paired with savory marinated salmon in "koji" (rice malt), and sweet and salty "shijimi" clams simmered in soy sauce. The appetizer alone was enough to raise my expectations for the meal.
Next came the "kobachi" (small bowl), a tiny dish brimming with spring flavors. Tender green onions were paired with sweet spear squid, seasoned with a tangy vinegar miso dressing. It was refreshing and instantly awakened my palate.
The "otsukuri" (sashimi plate) arrived next. Vibrant red tuna, firm scallops, and succulent squid – these treasures of the sea were impeccably fresh. Dipped in soy sauce with freshly grated wasabi, their melt-in-your-mouth texture and flavor were simply unforgettable.
The "yakimono" (grilled dish) was a miso-marinated silver cod. The rich aroma of miso, combined with the natural sweetness of the fish, was enhanced by the grilling process, resulting in crispy skin and tender flesh. Each bite was a burst of flavor.
Following this was the "shiizakana" (main dish), one of the stars of the evening: Fukushima wagyu beef cooked on a ceramic plate. The fresh beef sizzled on the hot plate, releasing an enticing aroma. Paired with a special sauce, it was an absolute delight.
The "mushimono" (steamed dish) was a meticulously crafted "chawanmushi" (savory egg custard). Though seemingly simple, it was full of surprises. The silky smooth custard, combined with various ingredients, provided a delightful experience with every spoonful.
The "nimono" (simmered dish) featured flounder simmered in a sweet sauce. The fish had absorbed the essence of the sauce, resulting in a tender texture and a perfectly balanced sweet and savory flavor.
The "wanmono" (soup dish) was a comforting bowl of shrimp meatball soup. The flavorful shrimp meatballs in a clear broth were both fragrant and satisfying.
For the "shokuji" (main course), we were served Aizu-grown Koshihikari rice, each grain glistening and plump. It was the perfect accompaniment to the delicious dishes.
The "konomono" (pickles) served alongside the rice were refreshing "yuzu" (citrus fruit) flavored Chinese cabbage, providing a palate cleanser.
Finally, the "dezato" (dessert) was a delightful creation featuring Aizu apple jam and matcha (green tea) cake. The sweet and tart apple jam paired perfectly with the rich matcha flavor, concluding this culinary journey on a sweet note.
At the end of the dinner, the waiter brought out the special dish I had pre-ordered. On a white porcelain plate, several slices of deep red meat were neatly arranged, their color rich and profound. They were garnished with a few vibrant green shiso leaves and a small dollop of brown miso.
I eagerly picked up a slice, dipped it lightly in soy sauce, then added a touch of miso, and brought it to my mouth. The texture was smooth and tender, yet with a slight, pleasant chewiness. The sweet, savory juices of the meat burst forth on my tongue, without the slightest hint of gaminess. Instead, there was a subtle, delicate sweetness, while the fragrant shiso leaves and the savory-salty miso elevated the deliciousness to its peak.
It is said that the origin of this horse meat dish can be traced back to ancient times. The elders tell that Aizu has long been a strategically important location, fiercely contested by military forces. The Boshin War at the end of the shogunate period ravaged this land with particularly brutal fighting. During that time, the samurai of the Aizu domain fought bravely but, ultimately outnumbered, were besieged in Tsuruga Castle.
Food supplies dwindled, and the soldiers were left starving and freezing, their morale plummeting. To maintain their fighting strength and to fill their empty stomachs, they were forced to begin slaughtering their warhorses for food. To their surprise, the horse meat was unexpectedly delicious and highly nutritious. It restored the soldiers' strength, allowing them to continue their fierce resistance.
Later, the war ended, but the custom of eating horse meat remained in Aizu. Through generations of refinement and innovation, it evolved into the exquisite basashi we enjoy today.
Aizu's basashi not only satisfied my palate but also allowed me to appreciate the history and culture of this land. I believe that this legend of horse meat will continue to be passed down in Aizu, becoming an unforgettable memory for every traveler who visits this region.
My stay at Senkyokaku is an immersion in the traditional Japanese inn experience. We savor seasonal delicacies and, most importantly, find solace in the healing waters of the onsen, washing away the weariness of our travels and restoring inner peace.
仙峽閣旅館的露天風呂
這個含有胡椒的茶喝起來口感相當微妙
期待已久的晚餐時刻
會津地方的鄉土料理馬刺し
