Jan 2025【日本東北】溫泉三昧之旅① 在大雪飄落的雪國,追尋秘湯之宿與極上美食(秋田~探訪有日本溫泉界頂點之稱的秘湯乳頭溫泉鶴之湯)

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飛機穿過厚重的雲層,眼前的世界瞬間變成一片白茫茫。大片的雪花,像是鵝毛般漫天飛舞,所有景物都披上了一層潔白的冬衣,只剩下模糊的輪廓,分不清是房屋、樹木還是道路。 下了飛機,一股寒風迎面而來,我不禁打了個寒顫,但也同時被眼前這片銀裝素裹的世界深深吸引。這就是東北的冬天啊!雖然寒冷,但卻充滿了獨特的魅力,如同一個冰雪的童話世界,等待著我們去探索。 我知道,這場大雪只是個開始,接下來幾天的旅程,將會是一場與冰雪共舞之旅。但我已經迫不及待地想要擁抱這片雪國大地,體驗這份獨一無二的冬季風情。 秋田位於日本本州島的北部,瀕臨日本海,冬天受到西伯利亞冷氣團的影響,降雪量非常豐沛。聽說這裡的雪可以堆積到好幾公尺高呢! 秋田的冬天,雖然寒冷,卻充滿了活力和熱情。首先,你可以在森吉山滑雪場滑雪,從雪道上俯衝而下,感受速度與激情!聽說那裡的樹冰也很有名,可惜這次我們沒時間去欣賞。 除了滑雪,秋田還有許多有趣的冬季活動。在橫手市的「橫手雪屋祭」,你可以看到各式各樣的雪屋,晚上點上燈,更是夢幻!聽說在雪屋裡還可以喝甜酒、吃麻糬呢! 當然,來到秋田,也別忘了品嚐當地的冬季美食。熱騰騰的米棒鍋,配上秋田特產的比內地雞和新鮮蔬菜,暖胃又暖心!還有,在寒冬中泡個暖呼呼的溫泉,更是人生一大享受! 剛踏進秋田機場的入境大廳,我就被眼前一個氣勢磅礡的「生剝鬼」給震懾住了!他身披粗獷的稻草蓑衣,手持木棒和裝滿白色紙片的桶子,臉上那副紅色面具更是令人印象深刻:獠牙外露、怒目圓睜,彷彿下一秒就要衝過來似的。 「生剝鬼」(なまはげ)是秋田縣男鹿半島的傳統民俗人物,也是當地家喻戶曉的傳奇角色。據說,生剝鬼是山神的使者,每年除夕夜都會來到村莊,挨家挨戶地驅趕懶惰和邪惡,為人們帶來好運和豐收。他們會大聲吼叫:「有沒有愛哭的小孩?有沒有不聽話的小孩?」,嚇唬孩子們要乖乖聽話,認真學習。 雖然生剝鬼看起來很可怕,但他們其實是善良的,是來保護人們的。生剝鬼的形象也反映了秋田人民勤勞勇敢、不畏艱難的精神。 生剝鬼的故事世代相傳,至今已有數百年的歷史。每年除夕夜,男鹿半島的村民都會舉行「生剝鬼節」,年輕人會裝扮成生剝鬼的樣子,挨家挨戶地拜訪,祈求來年平安順遂。 接著,我們從機場搭乘路線巴士來到了秋田車站,上次來造訪這裡,已是十年前的往事了。一踏進車站,我就被眼前這隻巨大的秋田犬玩偶給吸引住!它憨態可掬地趴在車站大廳中央,吐著粉嫩...

Planning on taking the Yari-Hotaka traverse and Tateyama/Tsurugi-dake Circuit Trek in the Northern Japan Alps


The Japan Alps consist of three volcanic ridges that run from north to south through the central and widest part of Honshu. The home of numerous hiking areas and ski resorts, and centered around Nagano, the Japan Alps are named after the famous European mountain range because they both feature rugged glacier-carved slopes and numerous peaks over 3,000 meter.

With the exception of Mt. Fuji, which is further east, the highest mountains in Japan are located in the Japan Alps. Numerous streams running through the plateaus and between the mountains have carved out lovely gorges and ravines. Thick-wooded forests occupy the lower slopes, and of alpine flora and rugged rocky walls occupy the higher slopes.

The Hida Mountains, or Northern Alps, is a Japanese mountain range which stretches through Nagano, Toyama and Gifu prefectures. The Northern Japanese Alps is a major mountain chain slicing through the heart of Japan north to south. A number of Japan's most awesome peaks lie in this popular mountainous region, which is loved by climbers. Several 3,000-meter-high rocky peaks rise from the Hotaka Mountains as if taking turns piercing the sky. The two most popular climbing mountains, Mt. Yari and Mt. Hotaka are difficult to climb. In the past 30 years over 500 climbers have died trying to reach their summits. Yari means "spear" in Japanese and the dangerous hike to top of this mountain takes three days. The ascent of Hotaka, the third highest mountain in Japan, isn't as difficult. At the top you can often see eagles riding the thermals. Still people have died climbing it. The route from the Hotaka Mountains to Mt. Yari is revered as one of the most difficult traverse routes in Japan. 


The Kita Alps are well-travelled in the summer months and series of comfortable mountain huts, similar to those in the Alps, are well-spaced, staffed, and equiped to accomodate the throngs of Japanese hikers during the peak summer months. Mt. Oku-Hotaka (3,190 meters) , the highest of the the group, sits at the south end of a knife-ridge which connects to the famous Yarigatake (3,180 meters) mountain, aprx. 6 miles to the north. Other prominent peaks in the Hotaka massive are: Mae-Hotaka (3,090 meters), Nishi-Hotaka (2,908 meters) Kita-Hotaka (3,106 meters), and Karasawa Dake (3,110 meters). 

The Japan Alps are truly remarkable and beautiful and a developed infrastructure allows easy access. At the base of the Hotaka massive, sits the resort town of Kamikochi in the Azusa River valley. The peaks are the centerpiece of the Chubu Sangaku National Park. Alpinists relish the challenge of ascending the mountains from the western slope, which is a sheer, massive rock face. Over the years, the steep cliffs have claimed the lives of many mountaineers.

At a height of 3,180 meters, Mt. Yari (Yarigatake) has a sharply pointed summit that is shaped like a pyramid and is located in the northernmost of the group of the rocky peaks. Mt. Yari is Japan's fifth-highest peak, and called“the Japanese Matterhorn”because of its shape. Mt. Yari is so popular that it is a summit that nearly everyone aspires to climb at least once. During the summer climbing season, alpinists form a long queue waiting for their turn to summit Mt. Yari. Climbing Mt. Yari and Mt. Hotaka is very popular among Japanese and foreign climbers and was one of my dreams.


Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route is 90 kilometer route that is broken into nine sections and includes rides on cable railways, a highland bus, a cable car, and a trolley bus. It starts in Toyama and finished in Shinano-omachi (It's also possible to do trip in the reverse direction), and stops at Kurobe Dam. The entire journey costs about ¥11,000.

Tateyama Mountain is considers one of Japan's three holiest mountains along with Mt. Fuji and Mt. Haku and is comprised of three peaks: Oyama, Onanjiyama, and Fujinooritate. The highest is 9,892 feet. Climbing the mountain has traditionally been regarded as means of purifying the soul. For many years it was off limits to women and was climbed by 15-year-old boys to prove their manhood. 

Among the mountains of the Japanese Alps, Tsurugi-dake is maybe the most famous among experienced hikers. The reason for this is the rather difficult and exposed ascent that is possible for the average hiker only with the help of many chains, nails etc. The normal approach to Tsurugi-dake is to take the train, cable car and bus route from Toyama to Murodo. From there it is a few hours hike to the base of Tsurugi-dake. On the way, you pass the sulfuric springs that feed onsen in many of the huts in the area.

Tsurugi-dake is located in the eastern area of Toyama Prefecture, Japan. It is one of the tallest peak in the Hida Mountains at 2,999M. Based on peakery data, it ranks as the 1st highest mountain in Toyama and the 17th highest mountain in Japan. It is one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains, and is called "the most dangerous mountain" climbable. Before attempting this mountain make sure you have some experience and take appropriate safety equipment. Having said that the trail up to the summit is steep but good fun and you get a real sense of accomplishment when you make it to the top.

If you have only time for one area of the outdoors to explore during your stay in this country, you can’t go wrong by choosing one of the many choices the Northern Alps has to offer. I'm planning on taking the Yari-Hotaka traverse and Tateyama/Tsurugi-dake Circuit Trek in the Kita Alps this summer, it's gonna be exciting!!.


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